Wasted Spark Install
Wasted Spark Install
Wasted Spark Install
by Bradley Denton
What is Wasted Spark and Why Do I Want It?
Both the m20 m30 engines use a single inductive ignition coil and a distributor cap/rotor to fire the spark plugs. The coil is triggered by Motronic via a transistor. This is a simple and effective method to providing spark. It does however, have its limitations in a higher performance application. In a forced induction (and high compression NA engine) cylinder pressures are significantly elevated over that of a normally aspirated engine. This makes it much more difficult for the ignition system to ionize the spark plug gap (initiate the spark). Also, with the elevated pressure comes the problem of insufficient dwell time with a single ignition coil. An ignition coil has to charge to be able to fire spark plug. When the transistor in the DME switches on, the coil begins to charge. To fire the coil, the transistor is switched off. As engine speed increases the available time to charge the coil decreases, and it is possible that the coil will not fully charge, compromising an already struggling system. The solution is typically to reduce the spark plug gap to something around 0.025" (remember, larger gap can be beneficial to efficient combustion) to make it easier to fire the plug. However sometimes this isn't even enough. An ignition box such as an MSD unit can be installed but requires that the stock wires and distributor carry the increased voltage, which will shorten the life of the dizzy and potentially causing arcing problems with the factory wires.
Another solution is to run more than one ignition coil. In this case three coils, each firing a pair of plugs. It fires the necessary plug on the compression stroke as well as its paired cylinder on the exhaust stroke "wasting" that spark. Since there is more than one coil in the system, this gives each coil more time to charge allowing a saturated charge even at higher rpm. The other benefit is that the dizzy is no longer needed, removing its limitations from the system. It will never need to be replaced again.
Note - The biggest caveat here is that you must be running some form of standalone, such as Megasquirt, to implement wasted spark. Unfortunately Motronic cannot be used to run this type of system.
The Installation
This system chosen for my turbo 535is consists of a GM DIS coil baseplate and upgraded MSD coil packs. The new coils have different secondary terminals requiring new spark plug leads. I used Mallory Sprint universal 8mm wires.
Since the baseplate, which can be sourced from a large selection of GM V6 powered vehicles contains its own ignition drivers and we will be using the ones in Megasquirt, the unit was gutted of its electronics. Jumper wires will installed to make the proper connections inside the unit.
With this completed it is necessary to make some changes and connections to the Megasquirt unit. Since MS only comes with a single IGBT ignition driver, we must add two more. The easiest solution is to use the Glen's Garage Idle Board which while providing an excellent means to use the stock PWM idle valve, contains two additional pads for the two additional drivers. It already provides power and ground to the drivers, only requiring a trigger and the output to the coil. The connections for this can be seen below.
An additional DB9 connector was added to that additional pins would e available to connect to the coils. On my setup, Spark A, the existing one on the MS board, was jumpered to to the DB9 connector retaining the original signal to the coil. SInce I wanted to be able to be able to go back to a stock coil if I chose to do so, I added a Weatherpak connector to the factory coil power and signal wire.
This can be unplugged and plugged directly into the Waste Spark Connector, making changing back extremely easy.
The firewall was chosen as the best place to locate the coil assembly. A backing plate was made out of some sheet aluminum, drilled and tapped to hold down the coils, painted and them mounted to the firewall (the silver piece is the original GM backing plate).
Here is a shot of all of the coils in place.
With the coils mounted it was possible to determine the correct length for all of the spark plug wires. Since I am not a fan of colorful wires and wanted a stock look, I chose black wires and wanted to route them in the original plastic loom. Since the wires not enter the loom from the rear, some plastic had to be removed with a Dremel. I highly recommend you buy the MSD spark plug wire stripping/crimping tool as it makes stripping the wire much easier and allows for a strong, proper crimp on the connector. The complete wire set can be seen below. New spark plugs, a set of BKR7E were gapped to 0.030" and installed as well.
The coils firing order is shown below.
A few small changes must be made in Megasquirt so that it knows there are two additional coils it must fire. "Wasted Spark" must be selected from Number of Coils drop down menu. Megasquirt automatically assumes that coil B and C are connected to the outputs that I show in the drawings above. Connect the spark leads to the proper coils according the the drawing above. Also, I increased the dwell to 2.5 ms, as I called MSD and asked them what the optimal dwell for these coils was.
The settings can be seen below.
With everything completed and installed, this is what the finished product looks like. Very pleasing if I do say so myself.
Impressions
Upon turning the key, the car fired to life immediately with no hiccups and settled into the smoothest idle that the car has ever had. Anyone who has ridden in or driven my car will attest to how smoothly the car idles and drives. Well, it has improved with no other changes. I have to breakup under boost running 0.030" gap at 8.5psi and throttle response feels a tad bit sharper. I cannot currently comment on any improvements in fuel economy but I will evaluate this over the next few weeks. Also, I will never have to buy another expensive cap and rotor again. For less than $200 this is a significant upgrade that will benefit the car even more once the boost is increased even more. For those running MS or standalone, I highly recommend converting your car to wasted spark ignition.
Parts list
All new parts were ordered from Summit Racing.
MSD GM DIS Coils - MSD part #8224
Spark Plug Wires = Mallory part #774.
Crimping Tool - MSD Crimp Tool part # 3503.
Spark Plugs - NGK BKR7E
Coil Base is from a mid '90s Pontiac with a V6 (yes, my car now has a Pontiac part on it).
by Bradley Denton
What is Wasted Spark and Why Do I Want It?
Both the m20 m30 engines use a single inductive ignition coil and a distributor cap/rotor to fire the spark plugs. The coil is triggered by Motronic via a transistor. This is a simple and effective method to providing spark. It does however, have its limitations in a higher performance application. In a forced induction (and high compression NA engine) cylinder pressures are significantly elevated over that of a normally aspirated engine. This makes it much more difficult for the ignition system to ionize the spark plug gap (initiate the spark). Also, with the elevated pressure comes the problem of insufficient dwell time with a single ignition coil. An ignition coil has to charge to be able to fire spark plug. When the transistor in the DME switches on, the coil begins to charge. To fire the coil, the transistor is switched off. As engine speed increases the available time to charge the coil decreases, and it is possible that the coil will not fully charge, compromising an already struggling system. The solution is typically to reduce the spark plug gap to something around 0.025" (remember, larger gap can be beneficial to efficient combustion) to make it easier to fire the plug. However sometimes this isn't even enough. An ignition box such as an MSD unit can be installed but requires that the stock wires and distributor carry the increased voltage, which will shorten the life of the dizzy and potentially causing arcing problems with the factory wires.
Another solution is to run more than one ignition coil. In this case three coils, each firing a pair of plugs. It fires the necessary plug on the compression stroke as well as its paired cylinder on the exhaust stroke "wasting" that spark. Since there is more than one coil in the system, this gives each coil more time to charge allowing a saturated charge even at higher rpm. The other benefit is that the dizzy is no longer needed, removing its limitations from the system. It will never need to be replaced again.
Note - The biggest caveat here is that you must be running some form of standalone, such as Megasquirt, to implement wasted spark. Unfortunately Motronic cannot be used to run this type of system.
The Installation
This system chosen for my turbo 535is consists of a GM DIS coil baseplate and upgraded MSD coil packs. The new coils have different secondary terminals requiring new spark plug leads. I used Mallory Sprint universal 8mm wires.
Since the baseplate, which can be sourced from a large selection of GM V6 powered vehicles contains its own ignition drivers and we will be using the ones in Megasquirt, the unit was gutted of its electronics. Jumper wires will installed to make the proper connections inside the unit.
With this completed it is necessary to make some changes and connections to the Megasquirt unit. Since MS only comes with a single IGBT ignition driver, we must add two more. The easiest solution is to use the Glen's Garage Idle Board which while providing an excellent means to use the stock PWM idle valve, contains two additional pads for the two additional drivers. It already provides power and ground to the drivers, only requiring a trigger and the output to the coil. The connections for this can be seen below.
An additional DB9 connector was added to that additional pins would e available to connect to the coils. On my setup, Spark A, the existing one on the MS board, was jumpered to to the DB9 connector retaining the original signal to the coil. SInce I wanted to be able to be able to go back to a stock coil if I chose to do so, I added a Weatherpak connector to the factory coil power and signal wire.
This can be unplugged and plugged directly into the Waste Spark Connector, making changing back extremely easy.
The firewall was chosen as the best place to locate the coil assembly. A backing plate was made out of some sheet aluminum, drilled and tapped to hold down the coils, painted and them mounted to the firewall (the silver piece is the original GM backing plate).
Here is a shot of all of the coils in place.
With the coils mounted it was possible to determine the correct length for all of the spark plug wires. Since I am not a fan of colorful wires and wanted a stock look, I chose black wires and wanted to route them in the original plastic loom. Since the wires not enter the loom from the rear, some plastic had to be removed with a Dremel. I highly recommend you buy the MSD spark plug wire stripping/crimping tool as it makes stripping the wire much easier and allows for a strong, proper crimp on the connector. The complete wire set can be seen below. New spark plugs, a set of BKR7E were gapped to 0.030" and installed as well.
The coils firing order is shown below.
A few small changes must be made in Megasquirt so that it knows there are two additional coils it must fire. "Wasted Spark" must be selected from Number of Coils drop down menu. Megasquirt automatically assumes that coil B and C are connected to the outputs that I show in the drawings above. Connect the spark leads to the proper coils according the the drawing above. Also, I increased the dwell to 2.5 ms, as I called MSD and asked them what the optimal dwell for these coils was.
The settings can be seen below.
With everything completed and installed, this is what the finished product looks like. Very pleasing if I do say so myself.
Impressions
Upon turning the key, the car fired to life immediately with no hiccups and settled into the smoothest idle that the car has ever had. Anyone who has ridden in or driven my car will attest to how smoothly the car idles and drives. Well, it has improved with no other changes. I have to breakup under boost running 0.030" gap at 8.5psi and throttle response feels a tad bit sharper. I cannot currently comment on any improvements in fuel economy but I will evaluate this over the next few weeks. Also, I will never have to buy another expensive cap and rotor again. For less than $200 this is a significant upgrade that will benefit the car even more once the boost is increased even more. For those running MS or standalone, I highly recommend converting your car to wasted spark ignition.
Parts list
All new parts were ordered from Summit Racing.
MSD GM DIS Coils - MSD part #8224
Spark Plug Wires = Mallory part #774.
Crimping Tool - MSD Crimp Tool part # 3503.
Spark Plugs - NGK BKR7E
Coil Base is from a mid '90s Pontiac with a V6 (yes, my car now has a Pontiac part on it).
Last edited by Brad D. on Sep 22, 2009 12:37 AM, edited 1 time in total.
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Damn, you made that setup look hella clean! and smart move on putting the wires in the stock casing, i was going to do it with mine but my coil pack was too far away.
Looking at your settings, you should (as the megamanal suggests) upping your dwell to at least 3.5ms to start, from what I understand with wasted spark vs the stock coil is there is more time for the coil to charge since it isn't just one coil firing for all cylinders.
Again, my hat's off to you for a clean install!! Turn up the boost!
Looking at your settings, you should (as the megamanal suggests) upping your dwell to at least 3.5ms to start, from what I understand with wasted spark vs the stock coil is there is more time for the coil to charge since it isn't just one coil firing for all cylinders.
Again, my hat's off to you for a clean install!! Turn up the boost!
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He said 2.5ms is what MSD recommended.e30-m30_kid89 wrote: Looking at your settings, you should (as the megamanal suggests) upping your dwell to at least 3.5ms to start, from what I understand with wasted spark vs the stock coil is there is more time for the coil to charge since it isn't just one coil firing for all cylinders.
Brad, I was going to ask you you're plans for a dizzy delete but it looks like your going for a "cheater" stock setup! It is kind of wierd just watching the rotor hub spin. Great write up!
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Agreed. I think this system has significant advantages over a cdi system routed through the stock dizzy and wires. A cdi system will also wreak havoc on the stock dizzy in terms of long term reliability. The best setup would be to run waste spark with something like MSD DIS-4 Plus, the problem is it's $500.turbodan wrote:Not so fast. Wasted spark eliminates the cap and rotor and the coil primary wire, which are all susceptible to wear and leakage. This system could very well run larger plug gaps more reliably than a stock system with CDI.Shadow wrote:If your cdi won't fire the mix don't expect wasted spark to.
Someone can correct me if i'm wrong. I believe the coil strength would be the same, however at higher RPM levels, the stock dizzy does not distribute as accurate of a spark, as the wasted spark.T_C_D wrote:Is it safe to say that a cdi with MSD6A and good coil, cap and rotor will fire as strongly as a wasted spark setup? or stronger?
I always run a .025 or smaller gap. Never had any issues.turbodan wrote:CDI could possibly produce too much voltage to plumb down through the spark plug. Even with brand new wires, etc. I've always had to gap down. The car runs well even with the tiny plug gap though, so I'll probably just deal with it.
I never "upgrade" until my current setup displays inadequacy.
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In my situation, and already having an SEM in place and tuned, wasted spark was the less expensive route. I also know it out-performs the stock setup due to the fact that junkyard coils and a 0.025" plug gap are keeping the mixture lit up to 22 psi. The stock ign. system on my b34/b35 was crapping out at 15psi. I can't see where once you upgrade to MSD coils on the waste spark setup where a single coil and cdi would keep up.
[hijack]
How many other turbo'd m30s are running the b34 short block and b35 head/cam/intake? So far, the stock (200k) b34 was able to consume 1 clutch on the stock fuel pump and ign system at 20psi. Now it's a whole other story; bigger pump, wasted spark, and having troubles with what was once a rock solid MS boost controller holding a solid number past 15psi. It even sounds different too. Good problem to have?
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[hijack]
How many other turbo'd m30s are running the b34 short block and b35 head/cam/intake? So far, the stock (200k) b34 was able to consume 1 clutch on the stock fuel pump and ign system at 20psi. Now it's a whole other story; bigger pump, wasted spark, and having troubles with what was once a rock solid MS boost controller holding a solid number past 15psi. It even sounds different too. Good problem to have?
[/hijack]
I am desperate for someone to post a number bigger than my 392/441 from 2006.grsmonkey wrote:. Now it's a whole other story; bigger pump, wasted spark, and having troubles with what was once a rock solid MS boost controller holding a solid number past 15psi. It even sounds different too. Good problem to have?
I need some motivation to go really big or I am going to settle for 400/400.
orly?T_C_D wrote:I am desperate for someone to post a number bigger than my 392/441 from 2006.grsmonkey wrote:. Now it's a whole other story; bigger pump, wasted spark, and having troubles with what was once a rock solid MS boost controller holding a solid number past 15psi. It even sounds different too. Good problem to have?
I need some motivation to go really big or I am going to settle for 400/400.
Car feels stout at 1.5 bar running on spring only...
I consider a puny plug gap somewhat inadequate. It seems to work, but I think it'd work better with moar spark energy and a reasonable plug gap. I'd be happy with .030", as unlikely as that is at high boost levels.T_C_D wrote:I always run a .025 or smaller gap. Never had any issues.turbodan wrote:CDI could possibly produce too much voltage to plumb down through the spark plug. Even with brand new wires, etc. I've always had to gap down. The car runs well even with the tiny plug gap though, so I'll probably just deal with it.
I never "upgrade" until my current setup displays inadequacy.
Improving the performance of the ignition is certainly something for me to consider.turbodan wrote: I consider a puny plug gap somewhat inadequate. It seems to work, but I think it'd work better with moar spark energy and a reasonable plug gap. I'd be happy with .030", as unlikely as that is at high boost levels.
I don't think I'm fooled into thinking a cdi system is the be all and end all of ignition systems. After reading Dan's impressions of his MSD 6A box, I didn't really feel that it was worth the cost given that it has to pass through the dizzy which can be a limitation as well as not being as accurate as a truly digital ignition. Dwell time also become an issue with a single coil and the only remedy is multiple coils. Like I said before, a waste spark cdi system would be the best of both worlds.Shadow wrote:Much stronger, don't be fooled.T_C_D wrote:Is it safe to say that a cdi with MSD6A and good coil, cap and rotor will fire as strongly as a wasted spark setup? or stronger?
As a secondary point, you could implement a waste spark setup for close to the same price as a new Bosch cap and rotor whose lifespan will be significantly shortened if you run a cdi box.
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