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Hello everyone,

I realize this is a long shot, but i am looking for an injection pump for my 524td. I have a 1985 524td that i have been working to get it running for a little bit now without success. the injection pump i am working with currently has definitely been taken apart prior to my ownership, and is missing the locking collar for the full load screw and the cap for the smoke screw, etc. I am looking for a used injection pump that has these collars and not been tampered with, or a pump proven in good condition, (video of pump running on car?) After realizing the pump has been messed with, and having some leaks even from the in-tank pump pressure on the low pressure side, I decided to disassemble, clean and reseal the pump. After completing this proceure, installing the pump with new timing belt, correct timing tool on the cam, and correct static timing procedure with dial indicator, it refuses to run. I have tried bleeding injector lines and nothing comes out. I removed the injector lines at the back of the pump and cranked the car, and no fuel sprays out. the shutoff solenoid is clean and working freely. I am at my wits end trying to get this car running, and if anyone else has any suggestions please let me know.

Does the low pressure side work properly? I believe BMW was sane enough to put the lift pump in the tank so it will actually bleed in a normal way. If you haven't verified solid flow into the IP, do that first.

Thanks for the advice! and I have confirmed low pressure operation, the feed line to the injection pump has fuel flowing through it when the in-tank electric lift pump is operating with the key on, and if I pull the fuel shutoff solenoid with the key on fuel sprays out, so the injection pump is full of fuel.

gadget73 wrote:Does the low pressure side work properly? I believe BMW was sane enough to put the lift pump in the tank so it will actually bleed in a normal way. If you haven't verified solid flow into the IP, do that first.

another thought, is the weep line good? If that is sucking air it may not operate correctly either.

Does the manual fuel shutoff lever move like you'd expect it to? Just thinking that if maybe it got jammed in the closed position it would do this kind of thing.

The trouble with stuff other people have been into is you don't know what they did to it. Possible a part is not installed correctly or was damaged on re-assembly. Without a teardown and complete inspection, and knowing what to look for its hard to say. I'm extremely far from a diesel expert. I've owned one for all of 4 months now so I'll admit to basically throwing ideas at the wall just to see if anything makes sense.

I do appreciate your effort with trying help me out. I have had the entire pump apart since i knew it had been apart before, i disassembled it completely including the low pressure vane pump and cleaned everything in an ultrasonic cleaner, used genuine bosch rebuild kit and its all back together now with no leaks, but obviously having the fuel delivery problem. as far as the weep line you mean the chained hoses from the injectors to the head of the pump and the main return line? all of those hoses look good and dont leak. again thanks for the help!

gadget73 wrote:another thought, is the weep line good? If that is sucking air it may not operate correctly either.

Does the manual fuel shutoff lever move like you'd expect it to? Just thinking that if maybe it got jammed in the closed position it would do this kind of thing.

The trouble with stuff other people have been into is you don't know what they did to it. Possible a part is not installed correctly or was damaged on re-assembly. Without a teardown and complete inspection, and knowing what to look for its hard to say. I'm extremely far from a diesel expert. I've owned one for all of 4 months now so I'll admit to basically throwing ideas at the wall just to see if anything makes sense.

weep lines are the little hoses running between the injectors. Its to drain off any fuel getting around the pintle in the fuel injector so it doesn't pressurize the injector body. They return to the suction side of the vane pump, so a broken hose will let it pull air instead of fuel. Still wouldn't expect that to completely kill the high pressure side of the pump though. Kinda sounds like problems with the fuel shutoff, either manual or electric. Also a possibly stupid question, but you've verified power getting to the fuel shutoff solenoid when cranking?

I do have power at the shutoff solenoid while cranking, and i have even ran a dedicated wire to the solenoid straight from the battery for testing purposes. still getting nothing out of it unfortunately. the manual shutoff lever also feels identical to the lever on my other 524td which runs no problem.

gadget73 wrote:weep lines are the little hoses running between the injectors. Its to drain off any fuel getting around the pintle in the fuel injector so it doesn't pressurize the injector body. They return to the suction side of the vane pump, so a broken hose will let it pull air instead of fuel. Still wouldn't expect that to completely kill the high pressure side of the pump though. Kinda sounds like problems with the fuel shutoff, either manual or electric. Also a possibly stupid question, but you've verified power getting to the fuel shutoff solenoid when cranking?

I guess you have tried it, but are you sure the main fuel screw (at the back of the pump) are turned enough clockwise? If not, you may not get fuel out to the high pressure pipes. When you overhaul a pump it maybe requires a different setting on this screw. Just turn it clockwise one or two turns more than you think it should. Just be ready to shut off or choke the engine, so it does not runaway.
Good luck

That is not a bad idea, i'll have to give it a shot. Thanks for the tip!

Did that get it going?

not yet, haven't had any luck.

Just to confirm, is this the VE pump without the electronic timing, or the VP with the electronic? I seem to remember being told that if the crank sensor is bad, cars with the electronic timing control won't start.

Where did you get the reseal kit? Mine decided to start leaking over the weekend, and its a fairly healthy leak.

How sure are you that the low pressure pump outer ring is in the right way around? It can go either way, and if it's backward the low pressure pump woln't build any pressure when cranking. Learned that one the hard way. If you have significantly more flow/pressure from the outlet when cranking than with just electric pump you're probably ok.

Try turning the smoke screw in a few turns and see if that will get fuel from the outlets. Don't try to start it, just crank with lines loose and see if you get fuel.

Possible you put the metering sleeve in wrong way around too, or something else isn't engaged right.

Expensive option, but probably worth taking the pump to a pump shop. Unless you really buggered something it ought to be rebuildable and probably not too much more than a used pump with shipping and all would run, plus then you have a known good unit.

VP20 pump (electronic timing) should still start without any of the electronics working, and even if not should still give fuel flow. All that does is change injection timing, all the actual injection fuel flow control, high pressure delivery etc is fully mechanical and the same as a VE. Some of the more modern pumps have electronic flow control as well (VP44 etc) and those are dead in the water without electronics but these are simpler.

Easy to find a seal kit, just search for Bosch seal kit. Should be something like DGK127? Very common kit. Only sticking point is there's several different shaft seal options and you have to know which is the right one. I think there's also a couple options for kits with or without the arenoid seals.

I got lucky with the leak. It turned out to be the injection head plug leaking. A new copper washer took care of it. I was not looking forward to removing that pump. Had I even considered that the pump could be re-sealed, I'd have done it when I was doing the timing belt in January. First diesel, still learning.

Thanks for all of the insight guys! I have an injection pump on the way from a member here, Strawman, who kindly sent me pictures of the pump and i can see the locking collar is still in place on the full load screw, and he took it off a running car. I should imagine putting this pump on there for now should at least get the car running. After that i can dive back into the pump that is currently on the car and perhaps put in the bigger cam plate and send it out to be flow tested etc. I have my original 524td that has headstuds and a tweaked pump now but it's begging for a 5 speed swap and a better pump setup.
I will update as soon as i get the new-to-me pump installed and timed.

Do you have the cam and crank lock tools? I have a set if you need them. The cam lock tool is a clone of the original, it doesn't have the clamping bolts but it should do the job. Of course I found it after I did the cam belt on mine so it hasn't actually been used yet. Not a particularly long drive from West Chester to me. The crank pin is something I made on the lathe but it locates better than the drill bit.

I do have a real cam lock tool and the proper crank pin. the only thing i use a drill bit for is the pump, since you have to take it out anyway when tensioning the timing belt. Thanks for the offer!

gadget73 wrote:Do you have the cam and crank lock tools? I have a set if you need them. The cam lock tool is a clone of the original, it doesn't have the clamping bolts but it should do the job. Of course I found it after I did the cam belt on mine so it hasn't actually been used yet. Not a particularly long drive from West Chester to me. The crank pin is something I made on the lathe but it locates better than the drill bit.

Wanted to see if anyone has a cam lock tool or a diagram. I plan on changing the timing belt but have not been able to find a tool. I want to make sure the timing points do not move. I am in NC and any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I’m looking to get my 524TD back on the road and the IP has been leaking, causing fuel to get into the oil. Thanks guys!

I got my copy of the real thing from here

http://thebestparts.com/vixen-td-timing ... ental-afab

they do rent it, but when I contacted about borrowing it the guy offered to sell me one of the copies they had for the same price. I figured owning one made more sense than borrowing it. If they don't have one, he may be willing to furnish you with a copy of the drawing they had them made from. It doesn't have the threaded hold-down bolts, but I didn't find that to be a problem. The injection pump timing tool can be bought for not much, its the same one used on a lot of 12v Cummins and old VW engines. Cam lock is a drill bit, the crank lock you can use a drill for but if you've got a friend with a lathe a better one can be made. It ideally needs to be a stepped pin since the hole in the block is larger than the hole in the flywheel.