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Well ive finnally started to put my diesel back together, installed head studs from raceware fasteners and put on an hx35 turbo from a cummins. just need to find a radiator for an auto 524td. Where to find 1?? New or good used one

check from summit catalog...

I recommend to use large aluminum radiator...
measure maximum size and just make order

griffin radiators are good stuff
http://www.griffinrad.com/

it may be much cheaper than new stock one and million times more effective

Ok i will have to check that, but im thinking of selling the Bimmer to make a Mercedes Superturbo with an OM60x engine. They seem like they RUN! big turbo and elements and not much more

insane524td wrote:Ok i will have to check that, but im thinking of selling the Bimmer to make a Mercedes Superturbo with an OM60x engine. They seem like they RUN! big turbo and elements and not much more

Yes i know... like many of my friends in here

this is mb190 of my friend
http://youtu.be/LxdBZBHAmd8

-Unopened OM606
-7mm elements/plungers
-holset hx40
-large intercooler
-3.5" exhaust + special exhaust manifold
-modified mb automatic gearbox
-Billet drive shafts
-large differential

it has over 400hp

That is amazing! its amazing that these engines handle the power without internal mods or even head studs. its pretty much just pump elements and big air flow?? Where do they sell mb performance tranny parts? I was planing on using a 5 speed from a 190d non turbo. do they hold the power?

insane524td wrote: I was planing on using a 5 speed from a 190d non turbo. do they hold the power?

they will not...

Only "large" automatic gearboxes from w124 300turbodielse or newer e series 300turbodiesel can hold that power...

and even those cant hold over 400nm without strengthening

all small automatics and manuals are very short-living things...

my friend destroyed 2psc stock na 300D manual hearboxes and one large stock automatic from 300turbodiesel within a month...

Damn! What Manual does every one use on youtube? Most of the super turbos ive seen have 5 speeds. That seems to be my only setback on making 1.

Also i have a question about my 524td. i finally fired it up today... it wouldnt start untill i turned the IP towards the engine, then it ran rough. so i must be off a tooth on the IP sproket. my question is witch way do i turn the sproket a notch towards drivers side or pass side looking at the engine??

insane524td wrote:Damn! What Manual does every one use on youtube? Most of the super turbos ive seen have 5 speeds. That seems to be my only setback on making 1.

Also i have a question about my 524td. i finally fired it up today... it wouldnt start untill i turned the IP towards the engine, then it ran rough. so i must be off a tooth on the IP sproket. my question is witch way do i turn the sproket a notch towards drivers side or pass side looking at the engine??

almost every superturbo mercedes are with automatic...
manua gearbox which some may use is getrag 265
you can try use getrag 260 from bmw too... but it can take barely 500nm with smooth shifts...

for timing... check my instructions from my eyecandy area

Ok thanks. Your friends MB has i manual valve body? Where do i find all the performance auto transmission parts? Thanks again

For the record if any 524td restorers are looking for a radiator, you can use a way cheaper Nissens 60601a (automatic transmission specific) 535i radiator in place of the 524td Behr oe radiator. $190 shipped from BavAuto. The difference is the core is about 1/4 thinner compared to Behr. Nissens/Behr have discontinued the oe fit radiator.



The auto transmission cooler lines are the same place - m18 1.5 threads.



Mounting points are in the same place, move the rubber bumpers over and it'll drop right in.



Inlet/outlet are in same places. Inlet elbow is 90 degrees instead of 45 degrees. Swing by autozone and eyeball a inlet hose that will fit. Outlet hose works fine.



Fan switches are at the top instead of the bottom. Longer wires needed to reach top of radiator.

Bump. This is what I needed, thanks.

danix wrote:Bump. This is what I needed, thanks.

Glad you found that helpful.

I want to report back that I've never had the secondary fan turn on even when the temperature is warm/hot.

I suspect that the temp switches are too high and that the coolant level is literally not even reaching that height thus not activating.

Hot summer car would start to creep toward high temp when idling but would go away when moving (this is with a good fan clutch), or running heater core.

Enjoy!

Those two plugs are for the transmission cooler? I thought it was an ac line going into the condenser.
If it's for the transmission, mine is leaking at the top cooler connection (not at the junction but behind it) and why I need to replace the radiator.

danix wrote:Those two plugs are for the transmission cooler? I thought it was an ac line going into the condenser.
If it's for the transmission, mine is leaking at the top cooler connection (not at the junction but behind it) and why I need to replace the radiator.

AC condenser has its own dedicated coil. It is the smaller one at the very front.

If you've verified that ATF is getting into your coolant then yes replace the radiator.

If it's leaking externally then see if it's leaking from the threaded connection, or from the crimp part of the hose.

No ATF in the coolant. I'm losing coolant, and today noticed coolant dripping from around/behind that top connector.
I made sure the connection was tight, and when I moved/flexed it, more coolant came out.

Pulled the radiator and I noticed that the top trans cooler connector does not have a locking nut on it, while the bottom one does.
As a result, the male threaded end can push into the radiator and that's likely why it's leaking.
I am wondering if something is cracked in there or if it's as simple as adding a washer and nut to this.
I'm going to see if a local shop can test it for me rather than putting it all back in.

Lower:


Upper:


Easy fix if this is it, but I can't imagine it didn't leak for years and now suddenly leaks, unless it's damaged in there.

Radiator shop said "absolutely, add a nut and washer, don't overtighten and it should be fine." Will give it a shot.

danix wrote:Radiator shop said "absolutely, add a nut and washer, don't overtighten and it should be fine." Will give it a shot.

Yup! The rubber ring behind it will have been squished as it's super old. Nut should do if you can find one that thin!

Ended up ordering the Nissens 60601a and it was already here, plus I couldn't find a nut. So, I put in the new one.
Going to try to find the correct hose this afternoon.

I was able to move the wiring a bit so that no splicing on the sensors was needed.
Also, through trial and error I found a hose that was a direct fit. Gates 22788.
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/ga ... 2788&pos=0

danix wrote:Ended up ordering the Nissens 60601a and it was already here, plus I couldn't find a nut. So, I put in the new one.
Going to try to find the correct hose this afternoon.

danix, how did this radiator work out for you with the new hose?
I just ordered the same radiator today and hope its all good lol

Still installed and working fine. One of the two lower mounts/cups is not present - if I had the welder I now own, I would have tacked that on, but it's fine without it.

danix wrote:Still installed and working fine. One of the two lower mounts/cups is not present - if I had the welder I now own, I would have tacked that on, but it's fine without it.

Good to know! Thank you for the info!