MyE28.com

Vinox wrote:Hey guys. I'm considering a Z3 1.9 conversion on my 1987 M535i. I suppose I have the aluminium console? And do I really need all the parts marked yellow, or is that more a "once you're in there, might as well". Just asking because I probably will replace all of it, but I don't know to what extent things are required to make the conversion work. Thanks!

I dunno, do you suppose you have the aluminium console? Why are you asking us if you suppose something?

You do have said console. Don't be a cheap-ass -- go ahead and get all the parts, which are likely worn out.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B026MP ... sp=sharing

Well, I can't seem to get the shift selector seal out. It was old (Duh) and had some oil on the selector.
I've been picking at it for the past hour or so and I think I've actually pushed it further in. So I'm going to do the smart thing and take a break and get some outside views.
Any tips would be great. Preferably quick ones. It's 60F today and my garage is not heated.


ALSO
This was linked in another thread that was linked in this one, but it's worth having here.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techart ... shings.htm
Could be the best guide for this repair.

Most people just push the new selector seal in on top of the old one; there's apparently room in there for multiples, and it doesn't hurt anything having two. That's what I did on mine, and no leaks, no problems.

briangelc wrote:I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?

LarryM wrote:

briangelc wrote:I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

In the process of gathering parts for my 5-speed swap, I've seen several used gearshift linkages and there doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason which direction the shift rod faces (drivers or passenger side). Does it really matter in terms of function, as long as the shift rod has clearance under the sheet metal support?

It's mentioned somewhere, either in this or another thread, that the RealOEM diagram shows the shift rod positioned on the wrong side. As far as function is concerned, it shouldn't matter, but it does matter with regard to how the rod fits in the space available and what other bits might interfere with it, as Larry discovered.

If you're referring to item 10 on the sheet, yes, at least on the aluminum console in the 535i with a guibo with a Z3 SSK, if installed as on the diagrams, it pushes into the guibo and you can't shift most gears.
I installed mine upside down, and it cleared just fine, and shifts perfectly.

Also, I'm loving the Z3 shifter (PN: 25117527252) with the UUC Delrin carrier bearings (Round, off ebay, for like $10). Paired with the stainless UUC RK2, it's very satisfying. Solid and crisp, but not too far away from stock-like. Feels like a stock Porsche 996 Turbo. Rev-matching down to first and second is now possible, though that's because the rear bushing (#8) was basically missing.
So if you're not sure if you want an SSK, I say go for it. Will do on all future cars, for sure.

Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?

CrustyE wrote:Shameless thread necro, but is anybody running the Z3 2.8 shift lever in their ETA? I just picked up a lever from a '98 Z3 2.8 for pennies from work to go into my '86 ETA. How long does installation usually take with the car on a rack/full shop tools?

Same shifter as what I've got.
Assuming you have all the parts needed the first time around, probably three hours (Four without a lift/pit) if you drop the driveshaft and exhaust, and I'd guess between thirty and one-hundred labour hours if you leave it up.
Mine took two weeks because I forgot the carrier bushings (Which I replaced with UUC's delrin bushings) and had to wait a week to get them in, and another week because I noticed my reverse switch wire was almost missing completely.

Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?

LarryM wrote:Has anybody figured out an easy way to get the “Stop Buffer” (Item #10, part #25111204422) through the holes in items #9 and #12? Holy %@*& that thing is a tight fit! I’ve tried lubricating it with some WD40 and when that failed I lathered it with synthetic grease. Still can’t get it through the holes and I’m worried about tearing it. I’m working on a bench; I can’t even imagine how tough it would be trying to get it in with the shifter support in the car!

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpar ... Id=25_0145

In a post above, "derrith" said that using part #13711259818 (a rubber bushing used for the air filter housing) in place of item #10 works out well; it’s much easier to install (it just bolts in) and is allegedly less prone to failure. I’ve purchased one as a backup but it’s about ¾” shorter than item #10; not sure how well that would work out. I could also fabricate something if necessary, but I’d prefer to have the factory-designed setup using item #10 if possible. Is there any good way to get it in?

I replaced that on my 528e (years ago) and don't remember it being all that difficult to get in (I do remember a few others that drove me crazy though!) Have you tried a little hand sanitizer or something else to slick them up to slide through?

I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.

Tiit wrote:I'm doing z3 shifter conversion and bushing replacement at the moment. New genuine bmw gearshift rod joint ( part number 25117501309) from pelican,has slop in the bushing. Hole in the bushing is oval 10mm by 11mm which is not much better than the old worn one came out. That can't be right can it? I thought I'd ask you guys before complain to Pelican.

That's right. If you were to do a motion analysis of the linkage, you'd see it's necessary, as the arc the shifter moves in side-to-side causes the front pin to angle in that knuckle. If that hole were not oval, it would bind.

Wow. All this time I thought my new joint was defective as well and decided not to use it. On a side note, I have found that the later symmetric joints (e34) don't seem to have that oval.

anyone replace this part : https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-be ... 5111220707

with the one from garagistic?
https://store.garagistic.com/e30-rear-s ... 5111220707

Ok, two questions. How do zI know which console I have in my 1985 E28 535i so I know what to order. AND, is a 1984~ E30 shifter set up the same as an E28 set up? I ask because a buddy has an entire short shift kit with bushings, clips, shifter and everything he is no longer in need of because his car got stolen after he ordered all the parts.

I recently installed an E30 short shifter on my E24 and its quite a drastic improvement over the stock. You will also need the E30 DSSR as well and the selector rod joint ($30).

I have a late car that was auto/manual swapped with the transmission from an E30 M3 and a sheet metal console. It looks like the vertical tab thats welded to the tunnel has gone missing. The pic above is the first reference I have seen to how it all attaches to the car. I have no idea how it was held together before but it fell apart recently while I was driving to work and now i'm trying to fix it with the rebuild kit. It looks like I'm going to have to screw the bracket directly to the tunnel somehow. Anybody else ever see this? Am I going to have to get someone to weld a tab on there?
This is way worse than I thought it was going to be (isn't it always.)

John

juan c. wrote:I have a late car that was auto/manual swapped with the transmission from an E30 M3 and a sheet metal console. It looks like the vertical tab thats welded to the tunnel has gone missing. The pic above is the first reference I have seen to how it all attaches to the car. I have no idea how it was held together before but it fell apart recently while I was driving to work and now i'm trying to fix it with the rebuild kit. It looks like I'm going to have to screw the bracket directly to the tunnel somehow. Anybody else ever see this? Am I going to have to get someone to weld a tab on there?
This is way worse than I thought it was going to be (isn't it always.)

I have done two auto-to-manual swaps (and am about to do a third) and it's easy to simply flip the bushed bracket upside down and bolt it to the tunnel. Yeah, it's not stock, but you only need to drill a couple of holes and use a couple of 8mm bolts. Just pull the part of the console that's above the area and cut the carpet for access.

Shawn-
Thanks for your reply. I thought I was losing my mind. I bolted the sheet metal to the top of the tunnel for now and it works but when i have my garage back I will figure out how to make it work properly with the bracket.
So the auto cars didn't have that tab? I guess I need to go read the auto/manual swap posts...

juan c. wrote:Shawn-
Thanks for your reply. I thought I was losing my mind. I bolted the sheet metal to the top of the tunnel for now and it works but when i have my garage back I will figure out how to make it work properly with the bracket.
So the auto cars didn't have that tab? I guess I need to go read the auto/manual swap posts...

You're welcome. No, the E28 autos didn't have that tab (E24 autos did, so don't let that confuse you).

Hi
I am in the process of ordering bushings etc to refresh my vague gear changes on my e28 M5 european; 1986.
I am sure this is a dumb question but, can someone explain the difference between theses two images on BMW site for e28 m5 european, for my car as there seems to be different part numbes and bits and pieces and I dont know what to order??

I had serious slop in my getrag 260/6, and did a DIY solution and short shifter at the same time.

The shifter fix starts about 1:20 into the video.
https://youtu.be/xTLPyNDg-QE

Cheap solution and works great.

Can 260/5 shifter mechanism be modified to shift a 265/6.
Or only option(short of finding E23 265 parts) is to find
another model 265 shifter mechanism and adapt to E23.
Knowing exactly how am I gonna shift the 265 in my 745i
would bring joy to my heart,and relief to my head.

Rust Bucket wrote: Jul 21, 2021 1:35 AM Can 260/5 shifter mechanism be modified to shift a 265/6.
Or only option(short of finding E23 265 parts) is to find
another model 265 shifter mechanism and adapt to E23.
Knowing exactly how am I gonna shift the 265 in my 745i
would bring joy to my heart,and relief to my head.

Probably should be in GC, but that's ok. What do you mean by shifter mechanism? The shift rod? The shifter support, which I think Realoem calls an Arm. Or what?

Thx Mike for your awnser

I call "shifter mecanism" the whole complete thing,all the parts comprising the shifter.I guess I could call it a shifter assembly.

I got my two transmissions side by side for a comparaison.I wanted to know how different they are to shift and if I could adapt
the shifter assembly from a 260/5 to the 265.I found they are too much different.

I partially awnsered my questions;
-"Could someone adapt shifter assembly from a 260/5 to a 265 ?" -NO
-"Would someone be better finding 265 shifter parts and adapt to specific car ?" -YES
-"Must have parts one cant do without" -DUNNO

Here are some pics showing key differences:



The selector rod travel length is significantly longer on the 265.This alone disuaded me from attempting to adapt.





Selector rod sits lower than threaded mounting holes on the 265,higher on the 260.





Threaded mounting holes are spaced wider on 265(may be dependant on tail housing)




Hope this help others navigating through the amazing world of M30's various transmissions.