MyE28.com

IT is probably this what i have to go after?

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do ... g=25&fg=05

And by-the-way: The short litttle Z3 M shifter on an aluminum console adapts the rear bracket easily - shaft through rubber ring. The z3 M shifter, E28 boot and E23 manual console fits great, shifts like a new car and looks completely correct. I'm thinking maybe a wood wheel to go with the wood trim Ever see anything that made a BIG IMPRESSION on you in a 733 or 735??

I just have to get brakes sorted...got the accumulator, and s.stl hoses on the way. Not going to upgrade them. Any one have a MC for [1986 535i E28].

Anybody got an interesting steereing wheel or inspirational story for my E23 peoject?:

Yeah,yeah.....wrong place

How do you get the covers off so you can tell which console you have aluminum or sheet metal? I have a 1985 535i if that makes a difference.

The measurements aren't exact.

I'm prepping my '84 260/5 sheet metal console for swap into my '88. In the sheetmetal pictures, item 9 - Gearshift rod joint, has changed design a little, you don't need item 7 "tension bush"...the rod joint comes with a little wire clip. i bought my parts off autohausz...not sure it it was OG BMW or not.

So, I need to do this badly, So much so my shifter when the car is cold, hits the front back and sides of the console becase I let my boss drive it for two days and he forced everything so bad it screwed my already shifter to the MOON! Anyway, my question is, if I want to do this and get a shorter throw than stock, but don't want the shifter way notchy, what would be the best replacement shifter to use?

EE TWO EIGHT wrote:So, I need to do this badly, So much so my shifter when the car is cold, hits the front back and sides of the console becase I let my boss drive it for two days and he forced everything so bad it screwed my already shifter to the MOON! Anyway, my question is, if I want to do this and get a shorter throw than stock, but don't want the shifter way notchy, what would be the best replacement shifter to use?

I am in the process of a manual transmission conversion on my '85 528e and have made the decision to buy my parts based on reading all the posts in this thread and two others. Here in Tech Talk look for more shifter threads by Fiver Diver and Alpine34e28.
There are lots of opinions on shift levers but many people agree on the UUC DSSR. Buy that for starters. And get a new shifter plate from BMW, if applicable.

EE TWO EIGHT wrote:How do you get the covers off so you can tell which console you have aluminum or sheet metal? I have a 1985 535i if that makes a difference.

I believe 85 E28s have sheet metal consoles. but if you would like to verify you are going to have to jack up your car and slide under there and look just behind the transmission. look at the top of the trans tunnel above the driveshaft if you see this you have an aluminum console


but if you see this you have a sheet metal console

I would also like to know the best shifter that is shorter than my stock 85 535 shifter, yet not notchy like the Z4 3.0 shifter. Best may not be the right word. I mainly just want to know which shifter is most commonly used as a replacement. I get the impression that the 1.9 Z3 shifter is popular. Does anyone know how that one compares to an e36 M3 shifter?

DriveMachinE28 wrote:I would also like to know the best shifter that is shorter than my stock 85 535 shifter, yet not notchy like the Z4 3.0 shifter. Best may not be the right word. I mainly just want to know which shifter is most commonly used as a replacement. I get the impression that the 1.9 Z3 shifter is popular. Does anyone know how that one compares to an e36 M3 shifter?

What do we mean by 'notchy'? As in when shifting gears, it has to sorta 'pop' before going in gear?

Ever worked a rifle bolt before?

Yeah...
I guess mine sort of feels like it has to be pushed through a "kink" before sliding in to gear.

Did anyone have trouble fitting the yellow washers on the selector rod with the z3 (25 11 1 434 148) shifter? Also did anyone not re-install the spring after the switch? Thanks for any help

IIRC, the joint on the later shifters is wider, so you can't use the yellow washers. I don't use short shifters, but the one I installed in a friend's car, I believe we ran into that and on the advice of a professional, we omitted the yellow washers. Are you installing this in a sheet metal console? Is the spring you're talking about the one that goes on top of the ball cup parts, under the circlip? It should all go back together, but the tricky part is that the newer lever doesn't come apart like the old ones did. There's no reason you couldn't twist the spring on around the shifter lever though. You have to get the circlip in there too to hold everything together. #10 is the only thing that should have to be modified. Just cut it and you should be good.

Thanks Chris for the smoking fast reply. There is a metal retainer on top of the spring that there is no way to get on the new shifter without cutting, I know I will destroy it trying to get it off. Maybe the C clip will hold the spring down. I will try it tomorrow night. And yes it is on the sheet metal console.

I think you will have to cut #8 too. It might go together without it, so you might try that first, but I'm afraid it will be somewhat loose just judging by how the wear of the cups affects the tightness of the shifter. I've got a sheetmetal console in the garage with some sort of later BMW lever in it. I will have a look at it tomorrow and see what is in there.

8 is the one I'm concerned about. Maybe if I take my time I can cut trough it with out bending it to bad. I'll give it a try. Thanks again.
It's been ten years but I don't think I had to bend the selector rod last time. Then again I don't remember which z3 shifter I used.

I was able to cut the ring no problem and the spring fit over the bottom easily. Thanks for the help Chris.

Good. I looked at what I had and there was no ring and no circlip. They just stuck the two cups in there, with the top one having been cut.

Glad you got it sorted! I seriously could not find your thread and then just realized it was at the end of this. Sorry it took so long. I was getting ready to PM you.

Thanks for great advice!
I was a bit confused regarding what exact parts one have to change in order to refurbish the shifter but this made it all clear.
I ordered all needed (aluminium console) parts for my 260/6 from BMW Classic Teile Shop today.

So other than going to a short shifter, are there any stiffer linkage kits out there? Stock-like action, with a bit more feel when it pops in gear?
Or is fresh OEM as good as it gets, without going to a short shifter? M5 linkage or something? Bav Auto? Anything?

I just got a stainless UUC RK2 and noticed my shifter sags under the weight now, so I'm going to go out on a limb and guess it hasn't been refreshed in the 30 years / 198k miles.

I just had the Z3 1.9 shifter installed. It feels great. I had a UUC shifter on an old e30 years ago, and didn't like it at all....way to notchy.

Anyway, once it was installed, it would grind going into 5th while the car was moving. Turns out the Z3 1.9 shifter sits a little lower, so it caused slight selector rod friction (I want to say against the guibo, but am not sure) only when going into 5th. The good folks at http://germancarrepair.com/ga/bent the selector rod very slightly, and voila! now everything works great.

I think it is worth noting that, at least in my car, the orientation of the shift rod is opposite of the parts diagram available in Bentley Manual, RealOEM.com, Pelican Parts, and this forum. It shows the rod being inserted from the left (Drivers side) into the eye holes of the shifter and gearshift rod joint (P/N25117501309) - putting the retaining clips towards the right side.
When I tried to follow the diagram the hex bolt head interfered with the shift rod's movement (hex bolt holding the front end of the sheetmetal to the tranny case).
It may be possible that the "gearshift rod joint" was installed backwards at the factory, thus making it necessary to put the shift rod in backwards. If you look at the gearshift rod joint/shifter elbow thing, one side of the eyelet is more off axis than the other relative to the tranny input shaft. So if that part is installed with the longer side towards the left, then the shift rod has to come in from the right to make clearance.
I spent about 2 hours under the car wondering why the galldarned shift rod did not fit!!!!!!uugh!!

Brad D. wrote:I'm trying to remember if I had to cut one or both but it is 10 in the first sheetmetal pic and 19 in the second. They won't fit over the lever so you make one cut with a very sharp knife and the slip it on. You won't ever know it was cut once it's installed.

Those of you running a z3 shifter on a sheet metal console; What did you guys do about #8 metal spring perch spacer? As far as the #10 lower cup, I think I will just cut it. I cant figure out how I can pull the snap ring to separate the two halves of the old shifter to reuse #8 even if I get it, will it slip over the new shifter knob side? I might be able to separate the z3m knob if I throw it in a vise but I doubt it. It has a rubber core holding it together.

It looks like I will have to cut both levers in half so I can get #8 off old one and install it and the upper cup without cutting those.

Thanks

Hey guys. I'm considering a Z3 1.9 conversion on my 1987 M535i. I suppose I have the aluminium console? And do I really need all the parts marked yellow, or is that more a "once you're in there, might as well". Just asking because I probably will replace all of it, but I don't know to what extent things are required to make the conversion work. Thanks!