MyE28.com

Thanks for checking it out and I will answer all eplies when I have some spare time.

I finally received the connecting rod bolts a couple days ago from Germany! 2+ Months I have been waiting and looking for other sources.

I started installing the pistons and rods today. Everything was going well until I broke an oil ring and determining orientation of connecting rods.
The connecting rods seem to be symmetrical except for the top bore where the piston pin goes through the connecting rod.

If anyone has insight or any pictures of orientation of rods installed in a M30B35(1989) 5 series I would greatly appreciate it. The oil hole at the top of the connecting rod seems to be dead center.

Best Regards,

-Scott

I found a web page with great information on crankshaft installation which lead me to emailing the person who documented the process. This was his response to my inquiry about connecting rod orientation in relation to crank/pistons.

"When I took the engine apart, I wasn’t familiar with that engine. So I documented (wrote down and photographed) especially the engine quite extensively. When I started to remove the piston+conrod assemblies I was looking for signs or clues on how I would be able to get them back in exactly the same way the went out.

So I noticed a pattern. On the top of the pistons you have an arrow. Notice how that arrow is slightly off-center from the guideon pin, it’s more towards one side of the piston. The cutout for the locking tab in the conrod should be on the same side.



Last picture is an actual shot of the first conrod cap I removed.
To the left is the front of engine, to the right is the rear.


I have marked the cutout in the conrod for the locking tab.
As you can see this should always end up on the side closest to the intake side.

Also note that all my conrod caps had an off-centered punch mark in them.
All my conrod caps were mounted in such way that this punch mark was on the side closest to the rear of the engine". -henrik.johannisson@telia.com

This guy really helped out! Huge Thank You!

After measuring, checking, cleaning, applying oil and assembly lube I installed the pistons and rod assemblies.
The video below has been compressed down to 2 minutes from 15 minutes.I added some house music as an effort to not scare off people with Drum n Bass.
M30 Pistons and Rod Assemblies Installation

Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

After Installing the pistons and rods I then continued with the journey.

-cleaned up and rebuilt Oil Pump, Installed.
-Installed ARP studs hand tight with lube.
-Installed Cosmetic .120" headgasket
-Installed ARP nuts to studs and torqued stage 1 and stage 2 process of torque of head procedure. Stage three requires 25 minutes of car running and then re-torque head nuts.
-The timing has been set(The time chain is newer with less than 40k on it.)
-Added the rear main seal, misc . parts on head, and cleaned up the cam cover.(Thanks Jeremy!) I am going to have the lines and "BMW" on the cam cover painted black. Picture posted is a teaser.

I am waiting for the oil pump tensioner. I couldn't find it in my box-o-parts. Maybe it was broken when I disassembled it. I should have this engine in pretty soon!

Fun to follow your progress... keep it up!

Ah very nice, similar to my setup. I also ended up using new oem m30 rod bolts.

Oil Return from turbo.

Alright!

The engine is in the car and purrs. So far 80 miles on the rebuilt engine/head and it feels, sounds, runs great. VERY TIGHT engine. Holds great vacuum! So proud of myself and all the time I took rebuilding the engine. Thanks to the machine shop too!

I had some unexpected expenses arise so the engine is NOT FI yet. However, she is ready for it!

I still have a lot of work to do with the car, mainly small nickle and dime things.

To Do:(Not prioritized)
-New Diff
-higher lb injectors
-figure out which turbo/manifold/intake piping
-engine mount(RH side)
-hook up "Hi-Beam" lighting
-install horns
-drop rear susp another .5 inch or .75 inch
-secure suede headliner
-degrease under chassis and engine bay!
-bypass "auto trans program error" - converted to 5 speed
-hook up back up lights
-left rear taillight intermittently inoperative
-thicker sway bar for the rear end- loosey-goosey
-body shop visit to fix the emblem delete.


In the mean time, I will enjoy this completely one of a kind E34.

Congrats!! Well done.

I'm about a month from where you are... Waiting for pistons & camshaft.

Trans program error issue is easy. You just have to connect two wires in the AT selector harness near the shifter. BTDT, but I forgot which colors (sorry.)

Ground the grey/brown wire at x511

Cek - Right on man!

Thanks fellas. Will take care of that "Trans Program" next week.

Took her out on a short Canyon run through Ortega. Such a great car!

The rear end needs to tighten up a lot - loosey-goosey.

No new updates besides needing the turbo parts. Hopefully I will be selling my 1979 Club Wagon soon.

If anyone is interested in it here it is...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Ford-Club- ... 27d91e72bb

Engine Update:
The engine is running great. About 3000 miles on it so far.
Unfortunately it is leaking from the rear main seal!

I will have to drop the transmission and reseal. Plus I will have time to inspect the transmission and tighten up that sloppy gear selector. Maybe a short throw with new bushings?? My goal is to have it feel heavy and a direct connection from hand to gears.

Hope to get that turbo manifold soon and get it installed!

RED89E34 wrote:Engine Update:
The engine is running great. About 3000 miles on it so far.
Unfortunately it is leaking from the rear main seal!

I will have to drop the transmission and reseal. Plus I will have time to inspect the transmission and tighten up that sloppy gear selector. Maybe a short throw with new bushings?? My goal is to have it feel heavy and a direct connection from hand to gears.

Hope to get that turbo manifold soon and get it installed!

did you put a new.seal in when you rebuilt it?!?

did you put a new.seal in when you rebuilt it?!?

Yes. All new seals. Pretty nice having the front of the engine nice and dry.

Keep an eye out for that cover on the back of the cylinder head. Im not entirely sure if the B35's had them but the one on my B34 gave me a hell of a time. I thought it was my rear main seal leaking after I rebuilt my engine. Only to find it was the cover plate on the back of the cylinder head.

If the B35 doesn't have it, then this post was a waste of reading.
Good job on the rebuild. Hoping it runs good for years to come.

@ Jim. Thanks Jim. I did check it its dry.

The headgasket looks dry too which is great. Thank you ARP.

I am hoping it is just the rear main seal and that's it. My clutch is slipping under hard accel and fast shifting which is pointing me to that area.

UPDATE on turbo installation.
Well, I bought another vehicle I couldn't pass up which will finance more of this threads project.

1990 black on black 535 auto with blown headgasket and AC Schnizter Full kit. Very clean exterior and very clean interior.
Manual Swap and LSD Diff plus prep motor for turbo application, engage!

After the Black 90 E34 is gone back to the Red 89 E34.

RED is doing great. I do drive it like I stole it everyday but I don't abuse it. I hit 5500 RPM max but this is rare. The engine is sounding great and no other oil leaks are in the front of oil pan. Trans is great too.

The suspension and tires on the other hand are worked really hard. What remains for the suspension to be fine for another year would be front and rear stabilizer bars(larger), rear Koni Adj. shocks and that's it. The butt is pretty loosey goosey.

Thanks for checking out the progress people.

Happy New Year everyone.

I can knock this off my bucket list. NEXT.
Enjoy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF-kdWQw ... e=youtu.be

I have been driving her hard for the past few weeks. I had to adjust the valves already which was way soon than regular maintenance calls for. Plus I calibrated my AFM.

I calibrated with a known good AFM and I am very pleased with results. Very smooth now.

I had a blast on the Ortega hwy last weekend during the day and night. Night driving was the most fun but most dangerous. Least amount of traffic too.

As for the MAF conversion out there, if someone has experience with the MAF conversion with stats I would love to see them and share.

The cause of that hard to locate oil leak was from the cam cover plate on back of head!

I couldn't believe it. I think due to using RTV on one side or using RTV in general caused it to leak. I replaced with a new paper gasket and heavy duty rtv sealer. No more leaks!

I started developing a hard starting, start and stumble issue recently. Fuel Pressure is okay. Pump was replaced two or three years ago. Fuel injectors are clean and I think original(320k miles) and the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. Need to change that fuel filter too, its due time. Once it does start, the idle surges for 30 seconds max.

I did started noticing my temp gauge would flicker intermittently. Finally, I saw the needle flat line to cold while I was just idling at a stop light.

After some quick research on the forums I am going to check the wiring to sensor/cluster and sensor. If it is sending a faulty signal to the ECM for fueling, it could be sending wrong a/f ratio when cranking engine.

On top of that concern, I inspected the rest of the drive train. 4 out of 6 drive shaft bolts sheared clean off! Installed grade 8 bolts and nuts.

Looking forward to getting it boosted! My black E34 is all done and man, that thing is pretty quick. It just goes and goes.

To be continued.

Quick Update:

The engine is running great!

Fuel Leak: Rubber fuel lines had to be replaced from sending unit to filter to hard lines. The lines started spraying when I took it to the muffler shop for a hanger repair.

Temp Gauge Erratic: Still flickers. Now the needles of fuel gauge, speedo, RPM, temp flat line and all numerical and alpha values disappear. Illumination of cluster is only visible. Never seen this before on the E34. I am shooting for a Inst. Pack assembly. 324k miles on chassis and the I-Pack.

Sold the black 535i so the turbo project will continue in the weeks to come.

\subscribed

I'm thinking about replacing my b34 with a b35 when it comes time to rebuild over the winter.

>Temp Gauge flicker: This was due to a faulty instrument cluster. The cluster would also flat line needles and center display box would blank out intermittently while driving. I replaced with a used Inst. Cluster from a doner car. The driveability has increased and no more hard starting/stumble.

When we had some wet streets here in Cali I was having fun sliding around with the manual transmission and keeping the revs high. This caused the oil pressure sensor to break and dump oil past the casing. Easy fix but I was surprised it broke! Symptom was oil leakage, oil burning and oil pressure light coming on at idle.

I had to replace the fuel regulator rubber hose(return line) because it was kinked and not allowing fuel return. The symptoms: Poor fuel economy, low power, stalling, and at idle, oil pressure light flickering. At first I thought it was just low oil pump pressure.

rockers need adjustment due to mileage too, maybe this weekend! Need to recover from having kidney stones though. That was my new year day wake up call at 9:40am. lol.

Other than this, the engine is great! Such a great chassis...love this car I want to get the turbo parts installed before summertime, priorities, priorities.