MyE28.com

I sent a message to diyautotune and wonder who else I may bother with this same message.

Hi, my name is...rain man... and I bought a Megasquirt v3.57 complete board within the last few months. I am almost ready to get the car running, however I have a problem with the RPM totally cutting off at 1700-2000rpm with the stim and on the vehicle. I have taken the jumper wire from js10, de-soldered it from q16 and re-soldering it at IGBTIN. I moved jumper jp1 to the 1-2 spot and moved jumper j1 to pins 5-6. I added a BIP373 ignition driver to the q16 spot. The bip373 kit came with a resistor that I was told not to use. I reflashed the firmware to MSextra 2.0.1 and everything seemed to go well. I must have missed something, or I have done something wrong. The car (BMW) runs off of a 60-2 crank wheel with a bosch 3 wire PWM idle valve and I am using the Glen's garage idle board. I have checked and double checked my wiring and various sensors with no ill results from that side. I knew there must be a problem with the MS setup when It would do the same thing on the Jimstimv1.4. I tried adjusting the "trim pots" at r52 and r56 to even out the crank trigger settings, but had no luck changing anything. Please HELP ME! I am almost ready to scrap the whole project!

alijonny wrote:I sent a message to diyautotune and wonder who else I may bother with this same message.

Hi, my name is Ali Yetgen and I bought a Megasquirt v3.57 complete board within the last few months. I am almost ready to get the car running, however I have a problem with the RPM totally cutting off at 1700-2000rpm with the stim and on the vehicle. I have taken the jumper wire from js10, de-soldered it from q16 and re-soldering it at IGBTIN. I moved jumper jp1 to the 1-2 spot and moved jumper j1 to pins 5-6. I added a BIP373 ignition driver to the q16 spot. The bip373 kit came with a resistor that I was told not to use. I reflashed the firmware to MSextra 2.0.1 and everything seemed to go well. I must have missed something, or I have done something wrong. The car (BMW) runs off of a 60-2 crank wheel with a bosch 3 wire PWM idle valve and I am using the Glen's garage idle board. I have checked and double checked my wiring and various sensors with no ill results from that side. I knew there must be a problem with the MS setup when It would do the same thing on the Jimstimv1.4. I tried adjusting the "trim pots" at r52 and r56 to even out the crank trigger settings, but had no luck changing anything. Please HELP ME! I am almost ready to scrap the whole project!

BTW, the tooth loggers are broken in 2.0.1 which I why I suggested a later version.

care to point me in the right direction?

I found this post on MS forums, however this is someone dealing with a v3.0 board.
http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... em#p203384

what if I just sell this v3.57 and buy a v3.0? I am almost not concerned about cost at this point as much as function and personal health seriously.

please discuss.

alijonny wrote:I found this post on MS forums, however this is someone dealing with a v3.0 board.
http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?f= ... em#p203384

what if I just sell this v3.57 and buy a v3.0? I am almost not concerned about cost at this point as much as function and personal health seriously.

please discuss.

Try loading 2.1.0 release candidate or the April 13 beta. PM me with your email and I'll send you the zip file. At least then you could see the problem on the tooth logger.


I've not been able to verify but the available 3.57 schematics seem to imply that it uses values of components that might make it not work well for 60-2. There has probably been a running change, but I have no updated schemates.


If the board needs to be mod'd, you can send it to me. I build, repair and modfiy MS systems; surface mount is not a problem for me. I do charge for my shop time but I'm sure it's cheaper than starting over.


Did DIY know you're trying to use this on 60-2 wheel? Did Matt have any comment on whether there's any issue with component values?

this is the reply I got from diy I sent them exactly what I had written above:

"Ali,

Sorry to hear about all the trouble that you're having with this one. Lets see about getting you all fixed up.

The RPM cutting out on the car may just mean that it needs a bit more resistance in the tach signal line, which sounds about right, as some BMWs have issues getting a solid RPM reading without something like a 10k resistor mounted inline with the tach input at pin 24 on the MS. I'm not sure what the problem could be on the JimStim though, as that shouldn't need anything like that to work correctly. Could you take a datalog of what its doing here, on both the JimStim and the car, and send it in to us along with your current MSQ file?

Thanks,

Justin Shahan
Technical support
DIYAutoTune.com

email sent with later firmware

firmware downloaded and installed, I have the tooth logger working, but still have the issue with the RPM cut-off. If it helps any, the fuel pump light on the megasquirt cuts off at the same time the injector pulse lights cut out.

alijonny wrote:firmware downloaded and installed, I have the tooth logger working, but still have the issue with the RPM cut-off. If it helps any, the fuel pump light on the megasquirt cuts off at the same time the injector pulse lights cut out.

Fuel pump will cut off because the wheel is losing sync

Can you capture the log to a file and email it to me?

I will tonight, what rpm range do you want to see?

alijonny wrote:I will tonight, what rpm range do you want to see?

from idle until it quits reading rpm

Turn on the noise filter for primary trigger only (cycle power on MS after) and be sure to click the save to file box

well, since I have reflashed 2.0.1 the first time (prior to 2.10), it doesn't really idle anymore and I have not hooked up to the car for fear of major issues. I will try the noise filter on with the stim.

alijonny wrote:well, since I have reflashed 2.0.1 the first time (prior to 2.10), it doesn't really idle anymore and I have not hooked up to the car for fear of major issues. I will try the noise filter on with the stim.

You can't even get rpm on the stim?

same problem either way on the vehicle or on the stim.

i sent a file....see if that does anything for you.

quick question but i hate to do things twice.... my project has been on hold for a bit but im trying to get somethings done while it sits. Anyway its a really simple question, pertaining to the wiring of the crank/vr signal wiring, on the pin out you provided, brad, it says pins 24 and 7 for the wiring but if i already have a built loom and the sheilding is going back to pin out 2 on the db37 then the black would go to the center wire of the sheilded wire then the sheilding would connect to the other sheilding and then the yellow would go to my sensor grounding bunch? is it even worth me wiring this in before i have my 60-2 setup?

so just a small up date for me, to date the motor is still out of the car and i do still have to order some other small parts so that the mega squirt will have all readings.... ie TPS O2 and VR sensor. But everything else is wired up and or extended for easier wiring. I installed the Megasquirt in the glove box on the left and my two cross-overs for my speakers on the right.

I modified the glove box so that instead of hinging at the back like everyone elses does i now carfully cut the face off it and installed a hinge so that when it opens it drops down only about an inch and the the front pivots open. i did this partly cause i have already built custom kick pods but they were a bit tall and ran in to the underside of the kick pod. the other reason i did this is i am planning on putting some keyboard tray slides on either side so that i can A.) set my laptop on top of it and B.) put some cup holders in it too.

Okay back on the topic, back a while ago i was confronted with a challange or obstical where everyone with a 535 had a 3 wire ICV and i had a simple 2 wire(533). So instead of going with the glensgarage board and finding a 3 wire is went with a simpler setup that appears to work just fine in PWM warm up or closed loop. PCBv3 -- PWM IAC Valve Control (TIP120) 'Mod-Kit'. from what it appears when i look closly at the adapter board this small kit i picked up from DIY does it pretty much the same. Just less fancy and a bit easier to hide. Needless to say i tested it out last light and it appears to be working and responding very nicely. The only thing i find is it never completly closes, as when power is removed from it its natural state is open with full flow.

I also wired in another 2 circuits one for the experimental boost control and one for electric fan, i have a third relay circuit that i could solder in but i think im going to for go the methyl sprayer...... for now.

a question for you now. when i tested out my sensors, open air. (CLT and IAT) my IAT worked perfectly right up to 100c, its a purchased GM one so im guessing that is the upper limit of the sensor. as far as the CLT when i tested that the upper limit reached was only 62c which is no good cause i was using a propane torch to warm it slowly and it peaked there and did not get hotter, Now i tried the other CLT that would plug in to the same socket (theres like 4 sensors just in the thermostat housing. 2 with the same plug.) and that one didnt read, but i was thinking i may have to calibrate it, Anyway if someone could describe the one i am supposed to use and if it needs to be calibrated that would be much appreciated.

other then that, i have started putting the block back together but snaped the original rings so that is sitting. started to do some of the body work, got some tires that are going to be really tight. almost finish the rest of the interior. I think i'll post up some more pics in eye candy.

thanks for the help.

steve

Just wondering, what resistance values are you guys using for the stock CLT sensor? I'm using the values from the "megasquirt e30 wiki"

-15degC-------12002
30degC-------1707
100degC-----187

If anybody is using or would like to share their values they might've came up on their own that would be great.

I figured Id post this here also, as Ive never posted my maps. I believe the timing map is really good now for a b35 that can pass a strict smog test.

I made some log runs today and got the system pretty well tuned for my liking. I set the AFRs a little lower by just a bit and am real happy with the results. Plus I havent posted my maps so it seemed now was a good time. First the log..


Ive got it to run ~11.5AFRs @ 11psi. As you can see the PW is very high at 86% with just 32lbs injs. The car runs real strong. Its also getting to peak boost sooner with the timming map changes. And on a hot day like today, ~28C, thats really nice.

The WG works well here on the street as it peaks @ 179kPa and falls into a range of ~170kPa.

Um, does anybody else's boost signal look similar? As the boost flatens out, it oscillates from ~164kPa to 175kPa.? Im not sure if thats the oscillation of the Apex-I AVCR or not? Exhaust pulsations maybe?

That log should equate on a dyno of 310-320whp if I can every get the boost to hold on a dyno!

RussC

Hey guys, anyone talk to Peter Florance Lately? He sent me a message on June 5th, but hasn't responded to any of my emails since. no problems, I just haven't heard a peep out of him.

I'd also tried to get hold of him without success.

PM me for his cell # if you really need to talk to him.

He messaged me back, all is good.

I'm back from whatever creeping crud I had. Wasn't going to die, but sure wanted to.

Anyway I'm got the parts to mod the 357 so it can handle the VR sensor.

With MS, what do you do with the evap fuel tank vent valve (aka breather/purge valve), especially for the M30B35 and 533i where the vent valve is electronically controlled by the ECU?