MyE28.com

I know this is an old thread, but, I would like to thank Brad and all the others that have contributed to this really valuable thread.

I put a B35 in my 83 533 this weekend and it fired up on the first try. Really amazing given the changes involved.

One area that still seems a little sticky is the mounting of the new b35 airbox. It doesn't quite fit easily. Any details on what others have done with that?

Thanks,
Pete

ppressle wrote:One area that still seems a little sticky is the mounting of the new b35 airbox. It doesn't quite fit easily. Any details on what others have done with that?

Yes please! I've been searching for a nice thread with that documented.

I am getting ready to do the B35 upgrade swap. I have over 350K on my '87 is. My engine is old and tired. Prius' are passing me effortlessly. Anyway, are there any other affordable (simple) options for the exhaust manifold other than the stock B34 version? I can't afford to do anything custom. Maybe there is a thread that I have missed? Since I am going to do this very soon I don't want to restrict the B35 engine with the smaller B34 exhaust manifold, if possible. Thanks for all your help so far!

Bimmerguy2002 wrote: Oil pan-from b35 (part number 11131708345), since both b34 (part number 11131278878) and b35 pans fit, no reason to change them, unless you want to use the b34 alternator and power steering pump with mounting bracket. If you do want to change the pan to the m30b34 pan, then you will need the b34 oil pump pickup (part number 11411286468) instead of the m30b35's pump (part number 11411317100)

AC, power steering, and alternator-You can use your m30b34 power steering pump (part number 32411133969), 90A alternator (part number 12311466087), and AC compressor if you use the m30b34 mounting brackets (part number 12311708343 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11211258274), and power steering belt (part number ), alternator belt (part number 11221706788), and AC belt (part number 64521711056).
You can use the m30b35 power steering pump (part number 32411141058), 140A alternator (part number 12311735706), AC compressor, mounting brackets (part number 12311707194 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11231716270), and power steering belt (part number 11231709636), alternator belt (part number 11231706668), AC belt (part number 64521722371) from the m30b35, but you will have to do something to the lines for the AC, everything else will work and bolt up however.

sorry im a bit lost, can you use the b35 oil pan with the b34 alt and ps pump as long as you use the b34 mounting bracket? or do you need to use the b34 oil pan to mount the b34 mounting bracket?

need to use all of one thing

Bimmerguy2002 wrote:need to use all of one thing

thats what i was afraid of..

What about a swap of the e34 M5 drivetrain into an e28? Anybody have experience with that?

Thanks

cvick wrote:What about a swap of the e34 M5 drivetrain into an e28? Anybody have experience with that?

Thanks

The diff wont work, period, the driveshaft is just a driveshaft, that wont work at all though, and the transmission would be the only thing that could be swapped over assuming the tail wasnt too long and the shifter was in the correct spot, but it would probably work, though its nothing special.

How about complete e34 m5 engine into the e28?

Of course it will work, its been done to death, but its not a m30b35 though.

A year and a half into buying my car and I am just now getting around to it. A lot of things can happen in that time, I ave driven my car prolly a total of 3k miles in 16 months..

Brad D. wrote:



.

What are we supposed to do with these wires (below c101) which go from the power distro box to the ecu?




also for the fuel pump wire are we supposed to connect pin 13 from the e34 to the splice s128? the e28 wiring diagram shows the fuel pump control going via brown/green wire in the bundle below c101

what do you mean? put them into a round connector....adapter plug.

ive made the connections from the e28's c101 to the b35's x20 (the round 20 pins connector) but there a left over wires which used to run from below the c101 to the e28's ecu.. i know one of them supplies power to the ecu, one to the tranny computer, and one to the idle control valve, the rest of the wires i can't track down in the wiring diagram.

the diagram is on that wedophones site

I had to remove mine to work on the thermostat housing. When I tried to install it it spurted fuel all over. I changed the 0 ring, but that did not help. Is there some trick of which I am not aware. Oh and now I have lost the neopreme grommet that is used to position the 0 ring. Is there someplace you can buy those or do you have to buy it with the FPR

You can get rid of the fuel pressure by pulling the fuel pump relay and letting the car stall.

Bimmerguy2002 wrote:the diagram is on that wedophones site

Glad you figured out how to use ETM and adapter plug worked for ya

I just got done a m30b35 swap into an e28 with an automatic. It was fun lol. The TPS has to be off an automatic and you have to keep as much of the wires off the C236 plug to run up to the wires in the loom from the TPS. There is the shielded cable from the TPS that is very important for the trans computer to work properly... Thanks to the BMW electrical trouble shooting manuals I do have to say, they tell you the voltages everything needs to be at. The transmission fault indicator is handy too... If anyone has any questions on an automatic swap feel free to PM me, it was kind of a long road to make everything happy... Also on a side note, it is much easier to use the b34 block and stock pan, pump, and pickup tube. Everything fit like it should...

Please try to weigh in here and see if we can help MLastovo solve his 1.3+ auto swap troubles. I have all the wiring diagrams but have had 0 time to look through them and being that it is fresh in your mind I bet you could help solve the issue quickly.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=92239

Thanks for the info and assistance! I am feeling a little better about possibly getting my rig back to a driveable state.

vintagemotorsportsofMD wrote:Ihe TPS has to be off an automatic and you have to keep as much of the wires off the C236 plug to run up to the wires in the loom from the TPS. There is the shielded cable from the TPS that is very important for the trans computer to work properly...

Are you stating that the TPS needs to be off of an e34 or an e28?

mooseheadm5 wrote:Please try to weigh in here and see if we can help MLastovo solve his 1.3+ auto swap troubles. I have all the wiring diagrams but have had 0 time to look through them and being that it is fresh in your mind I bet you could help solve the issue quickly.

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=92239

Paul,
Thanks for the assist above and the chat with Linus. I haven't had a chance to dive into this yet but I am hoping to soon.

r/
Darin

MLastovo wrote:Thanks for the info and assistance! I am feeling a little better about possibly getting my rig back to a driveable state.

vintagemotorsportsofMD wrote:Ihe TPS has to be off an automatic and you have to keep as much of the wires off the C236 plug to run up to the wires in the loom from the TPS. There is the shielded cable from the TPS that is very important for the trans computer to work properly...

Are you stating that the TPS needs to be off of an e34 or an e28?


r/
Darin

Actually the TPS has to be from a Late E24 Auto, E32 Auto, or E34 Auto. Part number : 13 63 1 708 605. It has a round plug. There are the normal 3 pins for ref voltage, ground, and signal back to ECU. Then there are 3 wires in a shielded cable that go to the TCU. Those wires in the shielded cable are very important for the TCU to work properly. On most e28 cars that were auto, there was a tiny TPS and a microswitch with those shielded wires connected to the micro switch. So really in the round plug TPS it's just that same stuff just all inclosed in a standard size housing...

I just got done a m30b35 swap into an e28 with an automatic. It was fun lol.

and what was the fun?

Have read the forum for a while but pretty new to posting and being in online forums in general (dont really go on Facebook, social networking, etc.), but a little backstory...

Have a turbo'd m30 from a euro e34 535
decided to move to a lighter car and always loved the lines on an e28, so I decided to swap = turbo e34 m30 goes into an e28

The question:
regarding wiring -
the harness (going from the motronic box to engine bay) from the original e34 was misplaced during the swap (at the mercy of a friend's garage and a few of my parts went missing)
Found an e32/e34 harness, which should be a direct swap as it is from the same year

I have the original Bosch Motronic box from the '90 e34, but the pin connector is the 55(?) pin style vs the lesser # of pins out of the older e28

My thought, is that purchasing the complete harness will save me a massive re-wiring headache (limited time, limited tools and limited garage space)
and will allow for a plug-and-play swap, as all of the sensors on the engine are in place, and working, and the chip in the e34 Motronic Box has been modified for the turbo engine (e34 Motronic Box will replace the e28 Motronic)

This seems logical , yes?
Please feel free to agree/disagree or otherwise
Dont really have any Bimmer buddies

Any thoughts or hiccups experienced by anyone that has done an e34 m30 to e28 swap are much appreciated gents.
Cheers.

Les wrote:This seems logical , yes?

If I understand your scenario, yes.

The E34 harness and E32 non-EML harness will work with modification for the e28 fuse box. The harness from an e28 "Super eta" is the only direct-fit harness. I believe this thread explains the process in detail.