E28 Megasquirt FAQ

George · Post by **George** » Feb 12, 2009 6:40 PM

I have a hunch that senior Hernandez will have one for you.

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » Feb 12, 2009 9:52 PM

thesixerkid wrote:I have a hunch that senior Hernandez will have one for you.

Why would his dad have one?

e30-m30_kid89 · Post by **e30-m30_kid89** » Feb 17, 2009 1:35 AM

2 questions...

Is it safe to say Most MS guys here are running their injector staging to 2squirts/Alternating?

Also, Looking at one of my datalogs with my 36lb injectors and at 169kpa my injector duty cycle was 139%!! which really worries me. I was running 1 squirt simultaneous. Could my injectors be getting maxed out that badly?

FirstFives Dictator · Post by **FirstFives Dictator** » Feb 17, 2009 5:57 AM

e30-m30_kid89 wrote:2 questions...

Is it safe to say Most MS guys here are running their injector staging to 2squirts/Alternating?

Also, Looking at one of my datalogs with my 36lb injectors and at 169kpa my injector duty cycle was 139%!! which really worries me. I was running 1 squirt simultaneous. Could my injectors be getting maxed out that badly?

I encourage all MS2 or MS2Extra users with moderate sized injectors to run 6 sqrts alt.

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Feb 22, 2009 7:07 PM

so im still a bit at a loss as to what excactly i am supposed to do with the vdo type idle control valve, the valve responds to 12v in one direction non-polarized and has virtually no travel, so i dont know if its variable at all or if it is simply on or off. will i have adverse affects with removing the vdo control unit or do i ahve to keep that in there and if thats the case can i wire it through the unit with mega squirt/ mega squirt pwm mod/ or glens garage board?

thanks

steven

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Feb 22, 2009 7:58 PM

okay so i cut the vdo controller out. im done screwing around.

Post by **Brad D.** » Feb 22, 2009 8:36 PM

Are you going to go to the three wire valve and run the GG board? You shouldn't have any problems as long as your wiring goes to the correct pins on the idle board and the correct pins on the valve. You may have to run some wires but it shouldn't be too hard since you've already gotten this far.

bornagain · Post by **bornagain** » Feb 23, 2009 9:19 PM

Yeah so update on my part, the valve i have opens and closes on 12v and its non polarized but i dont know if its incremental(ie varied voltage = varied opening) i believe it will work of the mega squirt with the simple pwm mod kit that they sell. so i am going to try it but if it doesnt work then i will undo that and find the 3 wire valve and the gg board. we'll see maybe i have found a new way of getting idle instead of going with the gg board and it may be a cheaper alternative than the board and valve combo. either way for now im waiting on parts for the board. im also going to install the boost control upgrade and us the boost controller they sell. i also ordered my iat sensor and a couple relay kits, for electric fan and im going to put another one in for a water sprayer function. i also ordered another fet chip as mine for some reason decided to smoke, crack (see kids crack is bad) and over heat the first time i powered up the completed board. not sure if it was because i was missing one of the fuel injector resistors or not but they are sending me that and the 330 ohm resistor for the high current ignition circuit.

Besides all that, last night i started wiring in my harness for the squirt and i had my grounds and power and injectors connectedso i decided to test for power. I turned the key on and it couldnt connect to the damn thing, then when i plugged the jimstim back in to it and powered it on with the power pack it sync but was acting up like crazy, if i turned the rpm up it would bounce back and forth from 0 to where ever the signal was telling it, that it should be and it was beeping every now and then that it was connecting and disconnecting. When i did a bit more trouble shooting i started testing the main relay and for some reason that wasnt getting 12v and then when i finally got it to turn on, the first time i took my multi meter to it, it read over 20v on 2 of the terminals, i have no idea how i got more then 12 volts going to it, there isnt even an engine in the car!!!!! Anyway im worried i had a short somewhere momentarily and it sparked and might have scrambled something in the communication port or the processor cause it seems that its still working, just doing erratic things.

Input on this would be great. ohh and keep in mind there is nothing for sensors or dick all hooked up as there is NO engine right now. and i made sure i took the trickle charger of my battery befor connecting the megasquirt.

Now im waiting for pay day to order even more parts, thermostat housing, 60-2 sensor, wheel and mount, and 6 wire tps w/ pigtail.

Question to throw out there, im going to be putting the block back together pretty soon is there a set of crank and rod bearings anyone can recommend as well as a full gasket kit. im also going to go stock head gasket for now and arp head bolts. ohh and i need the timing chain gears and the guides to go with them asap ass swell.

e30-m30_kid89 · Post by **e30-m30_kid89** » Mar 15, 2009 2:33 AM

got one question.....I cant put my finger on it but the car wont rev past 5200 RPM or so i've confirmed from my datalogs...When it hits there its feels like a revlimiter and it bounces and the exhaust pops. I tried tweaking the VE in the area and nothing.

My wideband's reading show 12.5 - and somtimes 11.8 AFR at that part but it still wont go.

am i stupidly rich or too lean or?

Canuck YYC · Post by **Canuck YYC** » Mar 15, 2009 3:03 PM

Things that come immediately to mind - dwell settings, a bad coil, bad coil connections.

Post by **Brad D.** » Mar 15, 2009 4:02 PM

Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » Mar 15, 2009 5:22 PM

Big Bronze Rim wrote:Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

It was the 20+ year old vr sensor I was using. Resistance through the coil was in spec, but the sensor was weak and unable to produce a proper a/c signal at that speed.

e30-m30_kid89 · Post by **e30-m30_kid89** » Mar 15, 2009 5:31 PM

Big Bronze Rim wrote:Is this under boost or all the time? What is your plug gap? I would also check the things that Canuck listed. Also, I recall that Mike (grsmonkey) has a similar issue that caused a misfire and the demise of his cat. I don't remember exactly what it was that was causing it though.

It does it all the time....when i got the plugs the parts guy said he would gap them for me so i think they're gapped to what ever stock is.

Following what the MS-Extra manual said my dwell is 3.5ms since im running wasted spark.

Grsmonkey- Good to see the new higher dyno numbers!

M. Holtmeier · Post by **M. Holtmeier** » Mar 15, 2009 5:47 PM

e30-m30_kid89 wrote: Grsmonkey- Good to see the new higher dyno numbers!

Whoa! Not yet. I just added my torque number.

Post by **Brad D.** » Mar 15, 2009 9:52 PM

I would pull those plugs and check the gap. Stock gap is way too large. I recommend between 0.025 and 0.028" for FI applications.

e30-m30_kid89 · Post by **e30-m30_kid89** » Mar 19, 2009 3:07 PM

Woot! It was the gap....Revs past 5k no problems (reved it up in my driveway) So tempted to take it for a rip but i'm going to wait on my wideband stuffs to arrive.

Thx guyssssssss

Post by **Brad D.** » Mar 19, 2009 3:57 PM

turbodan · Post by **turbodan** » Mar 19, 2009 6:04 PM

It should rev out with no load on the engine. The real test is going to be revving out under boost.

e30-m30_kid89 · Post by **e30-m30_kid89** » Mar 19, 2009 8:47 PM

^^^I thought that too....I really wanted to take it out for a rip and see but I'm going to wait till at least tomorrow.

Before today It only rev'd out to 5k while idling as well as under load/boost so maybe it a sign of good things to come.

Lee in Ottawa · Post by **Lee in Ottawa** » Mar 24, 2009 11:35 PM

Finally a MS thread I feel comfortable posting in.

A little intro I have a e34 535i TCD stg2 just finishing it up. I picked up a MS2 v3 that goatthumper made after I found out motroni 1.3 wouldn't run my 42lbs injectors.

I am completely useless when it comes to this stuff (electronics wiring etc)

Can you guys put me in the right direction, I bought a GM IAT and CLT sensor, LC-1 wideband, and the MS. Whats next basically?

Should I go wasted spark?? If so what do i need? Which coils GM, Bosch?

I know I also need a TPS. Which one do I get. I have a M50 on here but after reading the post it sounds like I'd be better off with one from a auto e34/e32.

I'd really appreciate some advice, I am a huge newb when it comes to megasquirt. A friend of mine is going to hopefuly help me tune after hes finished doing his e30 so all i have to do is get it installed.

Thanks guys.

George · Post by **George** » Mar 24, 2009 11:46 PM

Were all noobs at one point or another, so no worries.

You pretty much have all the hardware you need.

You need to connect the analog output on the LC-1 to the signal wire on the stock O2 harness. (I belive its the gray wire)

You need to connect the IAT to the stock IAT wires on the harness. There are 4 wires that come from the AFM harness. One is ground, one is the IAT, one is the reference (5 volts for the AFM) and the last one is the signal. Connect your new IAT to the first two wires. You're going to have to look up with the color code to see which two wires are the correct ones to splice.

I don't think the CLT is absolutely necessary, but I'm sure others can chime in.

If you have the M50 TPS on there, I would just continue to use it. You need to look up the wiring diagram and supply a ground wire, a reference wire (5 volts) and a signal (to the ECU) wire. You're going to need the pin out for the 179 ecu and the pin layout for the M50 tps. You can use the 5 volt reference from the AFM wire that I mentioned earlier.

How much are you running (or do you want to run?)

Lee in Ottawa · Post by **Lee in Ottawa** » Mar 24, 2009 11:56 PM

I havn't had it running yet. I've been sooooo busy it's taken me 2 yrs just to rebuild the M30, all the suspension and install the kit.
I'm thinking 8-10lbs street does this sound reasonable?

Would life be easier if i had a m30 auto TPS because i havn't mounted the m50 one yet i'll have to make a bracket for it. Does the m30 one bolt on?

George · Post by **George** » Mar 25, 2009 12:18 AM

Lee in Ottawa wrote:I havn't had it running yet. I've been sooooo busy it's taken me 2 yrs just to rebuild the M30, all the suspension and install the kit.
I'm thinking 8-10lbs street does this sound reasonable?

Would life be easier if i had a m30 auto TPS because i havn't mounted the m50 one yet i'll have to make a bracket for it. Does the m30 one bolt on?

Yes it would be easier to just install a b35 auto.

8-10psi seems more than reasonable. I'm running 9 on a stock b35 block with a Ireland built head and extrude honed intake and I'm quite satisfied with the power. Getting things going in the beginning was a bitch but I'm happy with the results.

Have you considering upgrading the pumps?

Post by **Brad D.** » Mar 25, 2009 12:38 AM

The b35 auto TPS would be the easiest, cleanest solution. You really don't need the CLT sensor as the stock one works just fine with MS. Look in the wiring guide on the first page of this thread for the AFM wires that you splice the IAT sensor into. IMO wasted spark really isn't necessary, at least at 8-10 psi. I have had no issues in over a year of running stock hardware at 8.5psi. Just get it all going and if you want to upgrade later, you can. 8-10psi is awesome on the street and the engine will live a long time at this relatively unstressed power level. That boost should equate to 290-320ish hp which is plenty of fun. Like George mentioned, upgrading the fuel pump(s) is highly recommended.

Lee in Ottawa · Post by **Lee in Ottawa** » Mar 25, 2009 6:21 AM

Thanks for all the tips guys, really thanks. A post like this would have been knocked to the 3rd page of the FI section on bfc by now.

I bought a upgraded fuel pump from TCD so i'm good there.
One more question, I have a tial BOV that I was going to mount on the intake pipe were the take off is for the bypass valve. So the air will not be recirculated. like the TCD kit is there a problem with this.

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E28 Megasquirt FAQ