1987 535is 5spd, excellent condition NH for sale $5000
I want it!
Hi Scuby!
I sent you a PM, with my phone number.....please call!
I sent you a PM, with my phone number.....please call!
Thank you for all the interest in my car. I have tried to get back to everyone, but at this point I have recieved approx. 40 pm's. Each with thier individual request for pictures, info, etc.... I have had two people make low offers since it is not running. I decided to go ahead and fix it before I put it up for sale. I'll let everyone know when I get it running. Thanks.
Just to clarify. I had originally sold the car to someone on this board, although I cannot be sure of his signature at this point. He came and looked at the car and wanted it. He didn't make an offer just said he would pay the 4000. We took it for a test drive down rt 13 and he said he loved it. I waited two weeks, no deposit. Then called him and he said it would be in the mail the next day. Of course, no deposit. After a month I called him and he said he still wanted it, but it would be another week before he had the money. Now, two months later he will not return phone calls or e-mail. Being the nice guy and giving him time to get the money has now brought me more problems. I went out to start the car and it would not run. had two people offer 3000, so I decided to fix the car before I try to sell it. I have been following the DIY guide, but I need some spare sensors to see what the problem is. Yesterday, I checked the battery and it was reading 12.3V, dropping to 10.5 during cranking. So I charged to 13V, and it started right up. Ran for about 20min, then I shut it off and it would not restart. I checked the Idle control valve and it was humming, the dist and rotor are worn, but in decent shape. I need to start checking sensors. Is the spark plug wire held an inch from the block the best way to test for spark? I had a similiar problem six months ago, replaced the reference sensor and it seemed to go away. Any help is appreciated.
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Scuby22,Yesterday, I checked the battery and it was reading 12.3V, dropping to 10.5 during cranking. So I charged to 13V, and it started right up. Ran for about 20min, then I shut it off and it would not restart.
Recharge the battery and see if it starts up. If it does, check the charging system. Pull the voltage regulator, I bet you'll find the worn brushes which will prevent the alternator from providing a good charge. Also make certain the battery connections and grounds are clean and in good condition.
Replace the main and fuel pump relays. These two components can cause all sorts of intermittent start problems.
As far as sensors, there are only 3 sensors that will cause a no start. The two flywheel reference sensors and the coolant temp sensor. Verify the reference sensors against the values in the Bentley manual, do the same for the coolant temp sensor. If they check good , they probably are.
Let me know what you find.
Rich
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- Location: Maryland
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- Joined: Jun 27, 2007 9:32 PM
- Location: Shell Beach, Ca
A picture of the engine and the dash would help, as previously asked. Did you get the kinks worked out, what happened. The price go up to 5k? I thought you were taking 4k? Just checkingscuby22 wrote:My car is for sale...again...
ooohhh the drama.
I will not entertain any promises of deposits. First one to get me the money gets the car.
Thank You,
I was very interested in it some six months ago. I was willing to fly there to NH and drive it back here to Cali. But just before I sent him the $4K (the asking price at that time), he said he had a local buyer. Okay, so you snooze - you lose. I bought a '67 Thunderbird instead.
Some months later, he puts it on the block again saying that there were some problems with that buyer (he didn't contact me at the time). Then, there were some reliability issues (as he noted in an earlier post) and I was very glad I didn't pull the trigger. Mechanical problems on the highway, I don't need. Were they fixed? Who knows - he ain't saying much. I'm not dissing the seller per se, but I'm glad I didn't send the money back then.
This car seems to have all sorts of problems, from buyers backing out to mechanical malfunctions to the seller raising the price. It's a nice-looking E28, but it seems like all of the buyers he's had deals with have backed out. That's a bad sign.
Just my .02.
Some months later, he puts it on the block again saying that there were some problems with that buyer (he didn't contact me at the time). Then, there were some reliability issues (as he noted in an earlier post) and I was very glad I didn't pull the trigger. Mechanical problems on the highway, I don't need. Were they fixed? Who knows - he ain't saying much. I'm not dissing the seller per se, but I'm glad I didn't send the money back then.
This car seems to have all sorts of problems, from buyers backing out to mechanical malfunctions to the seller raising the price. It's a nice-looking E28, but it seems like all of the buyers he's had deals with have backed out. That's a bad sign.
Just my .02.
Nice, nice, nice.
I'm in Nashua. Your car is PROPER, alas I lack the funds for a car elsewhere on this board, a damn settlement fell through for the time being.scuby22 wrote:Hi everyone. I'm getting back to everyone as fast as I can. I have been out of town for a couple days. I'll try to reply to everyone this evening. I'll post pics of the tower, suspension, trunk, sunroof, etc. It would take too much to e-mail each person. Thanks
I have been on the other end of this, so yeah I kept the owner in the loop the whole time. It sucks.