OEM Windshields Now Available Through BMW

[John McA]

It would be nice if the replacement glass I'm getting a quote on is acceptable to BMW as OEM replacement. I asked for a documentation that the front glass is acceptable. Reply was 'confirm FYG' so, I will do so but bc I really need to have glass in this car. I guess the OEM replace is not in the card deck. . Its all good, it happens and have to move forward.
Thanks Chris.

Well see what happens on the install. Will update.
Vr,
John McA

[turbodan]

I'm interested in how you do. My turbo 528 has a crack, two stars and lots of scratches. I've been contemplating a Fuyao, assuming I can get one.

[BMWCCA2]

Well if, as marked, it fits the E28 Wagon, then how can it not be "acceptable as OEM" by BMW"?

[John McA]

Well. Does it fit the convertible e28?
I learn something new everyday.
Anyhow, I pulled the trigger on FYG. $450 including install.
We'll see how that goes.

[garageboy]

My understanding is that aftermarket windshields are to be avoided because of their potential to leak. They leak because they are not the correct shape. Unless you plan to inspect under your dashboard on a regular basis, I wouldn't take a chance on aftermarket.

But the Time Capsule has no rust and so for me, I have to do what I can to keep it that way. I have seen windshield cancer and it ain't pretty. Good luck ...

[turbodan]

Would be neat if we had a choice. Looks like we don't.

[Mike W.]

My understanding is that aftermarket windshields are to be avoided because of their potential to leak. They leak because they are not the correct shape. Unless you plan to inspect under your dashboard on a regular basis, I wouldn't take a chance on aftermarket.

But the Time Capsule has no rust and so for me, I have to do what I can to keep it that way. I have seen windshield cancer and it ain't pretty. Good luck ...

IMO they leak because they aren't well installed. You squeeze the 3M goo in until it's oozing out, then put in the lockstrip which causes even more to ooze out, clean it up and it's sealed.

You're right, windshield cancer is really ugly, but again, IMO most of it is caused by shops cutting out the old rubber with a utility knife, cutting thru the paint down to bare metal, then installing a new windshield and rubber without touching up the paint they cut into. Yeah, a year or two warranty on the installation, or even lifetime, but of course it's not their fault the car rusts. Except it is, but they either don't know or won't admit it, but usually the original customer is long gone as the car got sold to someone else.

[tig]

My understanding is that aftermarket windshields are to be avoided because of their potential to leak. They leak because they are not the correct shape. Unless you plan to inspect under your dashboard on a regular basis, I wouldn't take a chance on aftermarket.

But the Time Capsule has no rust and so for me, I have to do what I can to keep it that way. I have seen windshield cancer and it ain't pretty. Good luck ...

IMO they leak because they aren't well installed. You squeeze the 3M goo in until it's oozing out, then put in the lockstrip which causes even more to ooze out, clean it up and it's sealed.

You're right, windshield cancer is really ugly, but again, IMO most of it is caused by shops cutting out the old rubber with a utility knife, cutting thru the paint down to bare metal, then installing a new windshield and rubber without touching up the paint they cut into. Yeah, a year or two warranty on the installation, or even lifetime, but of course it's not their fault the car rusts. Except it is, but they either don't know or won't admit it, but usually the original customer is long gone as the car got sold to someone else.

You are not wrong about poor installation in general, Mike.

However, there is no doubt the non-Selkurt/St.Gobin glass's upper corners have a looser radius and thus are much more likely to leak.

[Mike W.]

You are not wrong about poor installation in general, Mike.

However, there is no doubt the non-Selkurt/St.Gobin glass's upper corners have a looser radius and thus are much more likely to leak.

Oh, no question the right product that fits right is a better option if available, just that it's not the end of the world if it's not.

[turbodan]

Just watched a crack run all the way across my windshield this morning. The heat from the defroster initiated it and it slowly walked its way across the bottom to the lower right corner.

I guess I'll start calling around for a fuyao.

[HayekFan]

Wow, not a great way to start the day. Was it the original windshield?

[turbodan]

Not sure. It's BMW glass but I have no idea if it's the original.

[FinSport]

Update 2/28/24:

-I just called a Vancouver BC dealer and they say there are no OEM windshields in the system in Canada or in Germany. (I know a few pages back there was a recommendation to call Canada.)
-I also called one Washington and one California dealer and they said there were none available either.
-I called EuroGlass in Redmond, WA (they did a Sekurit for my E39 M5) and they have access to Pilkington and Fuyao windshields. They will get me a quote this week (apparently, they were already prepping a quote for another E28 M5 right now?!?!?).

FinSport

[gwb72tii]

Update 2/28/24:

-I just called a Vancouver BC dealer and they say there are no OEM windshields in the system in Canada or in Germany. (I know a few pages back there was a recommendation to call Canada.)
-I also called one Washington and one California dealer and they said there were none available either.
-I called EuroGlass in Redmond, WA (they did a Sekurit for my E39 M5) and they have access to Pilkington and Fuyao windshields. They will get me a quote this week (apparently, they were already prepping a quote for another E28 M5 right now?!?!?).

FinSport

Good news as I need new one as well.

Is the consensus Fuyao is the best available glass.

[John McA]

Is the e28 M5 glass more expensive? Is that a thing? Just curious.

[turbodan]

Fuyao isn't bad. Pilkington is better if available but that's probably the rub.

[tig]

Fuyao isn't bad. Pilkington is better if available but that's probably the rub.

Pilkington is known to not fit right. Top corner radius is too loose and as a result leaks can happen.

If you have to go Pilkington, add some extra material between the glass and the gasket (we used some ~10ga insulated wire).

[BMWCCA2]

Fuyao isn't bad. Pilkington is better if available but that's probably the rub.

Pilkington is known to not fit right. Top corner radius is too loose and as a result leaks can happen.

If you have to go Pilkington, add some extra material between the glass and the gasket (we used some ~10ga insulated wire).

My last OE glass fit exactly the same way. Brand-new in a box with brand-new gasket. I was working at a dealership at the time and hand-carried it from our parts-department to the body-shop that was painting my 535is. This is not the first time. I've noticed it since the E12 days.

You don't think Pilkington copied the exact dimensions before starting production? They are, after all, an OEM for BMW. Maybe BMW got it wrong decades ago and has been passing it along ever since?

[HayekFan]

I think the gasket may be a factor too. The new gaskets from BMW aren't formed right and the upper corners are the main problem area. Or at least that was the case with mine. When I installed my new BMW windshield a couple years ago, I used a new gasket and really had to fight it to keep the corners from coming up short and leaving a gap. It's like there's a forward curl permanently formed into the material that wants to keep it from laying nicely over the corner. Even now, when I replace the locking strips I have to force them into the corners to spread the gasket over the gap -- and this is with the St. Gobains glass. The original gasket was formed perfectly and if I had it to over again I would have reused it. IMO the mantra when doing a windshield replacement should be to save the metal trim strip and save the original gasket. Because the new BMW replacements are awful.

[Mdreamer]

Reading through all of your experiences is terrifying me! I have a new OEM windshield with new gaskets scheduled to go in Monday by an installer the shop that's painted my car has used for eons. I plan to be there to watch the install. Do you all recommend I just sit back and be quiet, or would offering tidbits of advice that you have shared here be a better approach?

[John McA]

My installer took hours - said it takes patience. I agree. Don't hover. Offer a soda? Or perhaps, a daughter? YMMV.
Good luck,
John McA

[turbodan]

Reading through all of your experiences is terrifying me! I have a new OEM windshield with new gaskets scheduled to go in Monday by an installer the shop that's painted my car has used for eons. I plan to be there to watch the install. Do you all recommend I just sit back and be quiet, or would offering tidbits of advice that you have shared here be a better approach?

I wouldn't recommend any kind of nagging. Hope for the best, it is what it is.

[Mike W.]

Reading through all of your experiences is terrifying me! I have a new OEM windshield with new gaskets scheduled to go in Monday by an installer the shop that's painted my car has used for eons. I plan to be there to watch the install. Do you all recommend I just sit back and be quiet, or would offering tidbits of advice that you have shared here be a better approach?

You're in a difficult position. Nobody that knows what they're doing, or even thinks they know what they're doing, wants to be told what to do. IMO it's an invitation to disaster to hover. Maybe at most say something about, "I hear these are a pain to install and clean up all the goo afterwards" but even that is treading on thin water. However, you can always go in after them and squeeze in the 3M sealant and it should be just fine. See if there's a gap that looks empty, get the 3M sealant if necessary and go in a few days later. Pull the lockstrip if you really want to do it right, and be prepared to do a messy cleanup later. I'm speaking specifically of that pass upper corner, hopefully they're good enough that you don't have to worry about the rest of it.

Nothing says you can't add sealant to the whole thing, but hopefully that won't be necessary.

[JohnH]

I dont know why people make such a fuss over this. The whole process is very simple and only takes a few minutes.

1. fit the the lower trim piece to the rubber seal.
2. fit the rubber seal and lower trim to the windscreen
2. insert a 1/8" diameter cord into the rubber seal lip. Start on a side near the top corner, continue all the way round the screen, ovelapping the cord past the original starting point and finish on the opossite side near the top corner.
3. lift the screen and lay it in position against the body work flange.
4. pull the cord down one side, but stop before the corner.
5. pull the cord down the other side and around the corner to about halfway
6. back to the oiginal side, pull the sting round the corner, across the bottom, up the side, across the top, down the side and meet up with the other end of the string.
7. Job done.

The important thing to note is that you start at the sides, which holds the whole thing in place.
You will need to lubricate using washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle.

[tig]

I dont know why people make such a fuss over this. The whole process is very simple and only takes a few minutes.

1. fit the the lower trim piece to the rubber seal.
2. fit the rubber seal and lower trim to the windscreen
2. insert a 1/8" diameter cord into the rubber seal lip. Start on a side near the top corner, continue all the way round the screen, ovelapping the cord past the original starting point and finish on the opossite side near the top corner.
3. lift the screen and lay it in position against the body work flange.
4. pull the cord down one side, but stop before the corner.
5. pull the cord down the other side and around the corner to about halfway
6. back to the oiginal side, pull the sting round the corner, across the bottom, up the side, across the top, down the side and meet up with the other end of the string.
7. Job done.

The important thing to note is that you start at the sides, which holds the whole thing in place.
You will need to lubricate using washing up liquid and water in a spray bottle.

Thanks for the clear instructions.

Pretty rude of you to assume everyone else is as smart, skilled, or capable as you though.

I've done it 4+ times now and it's never been that easy.