535is Homebrew Turbo (ex 633 Callaway) - 2024 Update

[tschultz]

I know this is not an E28, but same engine and drivetrain, it basically is. Plus, this section of the forum is the most knowledgeable regarding turbo M30's that I know of.

I stumbled upon a craigslist ad for a Callaway Turbo 633. A couple of pictures and a brief description was all that was included, so I decided to email for more information. After a couple of weeks with no response, I called. I ended up reaching the guy and arranged a meetup. The car was full of trash and obviously on the back burner as one of his projects, but just so happened to have a decent interior, pretty low mileage, and in running driving condition. I took it around the block and found that it needed some work, but the turbo spooled up but seemed to run pretty well.

I have been torn on bringing my 535i to the track as it is a good runner for DD duties, and I haven't been confident yet enough in the M5 or 635 Euro to thrash either on the track, or throw money at them for track use. I figured this could be a car that I wouldn't feel bad about beating up a bit on a track day.

So after making the deal and filling out some paper work, I drove it over to a friends house who was willing to let me keep it there for a while and also happens to have two 535i parts cars that may turn out to be donor cars for both his car and this E24.

So i had to chance on Saturday to get over there and see a bit more of what I am starting with on this car.





The car was pretty dirty, but it is evident the callaway kit has been on there for a good while. Definitely needs work, but the turbo kit is all there with the intercooler and everything.




7th injector is run by an add on box called the microfueler


It adds a 7th injector into the Callaway manifold, and the injector is controlled by the 'microfueler' callaway brain. It takes input from manifold inlet pressure and looks at the signal from the coil. I'm trying to figure out how it fits in the with ECU, but it seems that it is completely stand alone and adjustable as I have found in my research. My understanding is that is a generic setup that was used on l-jet, k-jet and other cars from the 80's like the 320i, GTI's, and Alfas of the time. That is where I have actually found most of my documentation.

Of course you have the argument that it is a band-aid type solution because the additional fuel is not coming through the injectors, so you probably don't have even fuel distribution to each cylinder. So others have suggested replacing it with an RRFPR to control fuel into the injectors and distribute more evenly. Either way, it seems like a setup with intercooler may be a good basis to start with for moderate power increase, something no more than probably 10psi and maybe ~250hp as seen with the 745i M102. Of course the 633 has the intercooler behind the airdam, on a 533/E28, you may have to put it in the engine bay-- there are photos of it out there, but somewhat similar to that of the 745 plumbing. Maybe some more knowledgeable can explain this ot me a bit better?

I figured it would be a good idea to share all the information I have found for this setup...
The complete kit, found on another post here on mye28:


Microfueler basic info:


Install information:


Adjustment information:


Back to the car itself, it was a bit messy. The PO seemed to use it as a storage box with a bunch of junk inside. I found tools, cd's, popcorn, fastfood trash, cell phones, clothes, candy, dogfood, etc etc all throughout the interior and trunk. The good news is that a bunch of the BMW parts were still among the mess.













Trash emptied







If you didn't already notice, the wiring is hacked. Going to have to clean all of this up, AFM connections held together by speaker wire nuts...



At least it's a start:






My friends driveway:


The PO put a different set of springs on the rear I don't really know why you would want to raise it. The interesting part is that he also has undersize 14" tires on the car...












Where it sits until i can get back to work on it. Unfortunately progress will likely be very slow until I get a place of my own where I can keep it, but for now it has a new home.


The biggest needs of the car are brake bomb, passenger side motor mount, wiring, 4th gear synchro is bad, steam cleaning inside, powerwash and exterior refresh, and then turbo system refurb. My main goal for the time being will be to get it running reliably, along with electronics cleaned up and sorted so that I may be able to get it out to a lapping day with the 'as is' turbo setup. Although I have a lot to learn when it comes to FI, in the coming weeks I will be doing more research than anything.

[jodystevens]

Cool project! Definitely looks like you have your work cut out for you!

[9mil]

Looks like a great starting point. PureTurbos out in Cali does reasonable $ rebuilds - just index the current clocking of the turbos as it is a PIA to have to reclock after the fact.... .at least mine was.

best of luck!

[tschultz]

Hey Guys. So it has almost been a year since I actually bought this car but I am finally getting other projects and things in order to resume working on it.

In August of last year, I purchased a house. I had been searching for a good 5 months and the previous year and a half had me commuting to work and back. With no storage space or time, I was behind on maintenance and other items on my 3 cars. So needless to say, since I got the house I had lots of projects to catch up on, along with the Annual Drive 4 Corners BMW Meet. It takes a lot of time to keep up with planning that event and origanizing all the fine details.

Anyway on to the story of the car. As I mentioned, I purchased it last year and was able to store it at a friends house. I have had in the back of my head for a long time to turbo charge an M30, it has just seemed like a neat platform and there's a decent amount of bolt on upgrades for performance. Really the goal of all this would be a performance oriented car for lapping days at the track, and possibly autocross. Either way, I felt that this car was not perfect when I bought it and has a salvage title from a prior wreck. That, coupled with the PO's 'Fixes' makes me feel like I can't exactly mess up this car more than it already is. I liked that it was running and driving when I bought it, plus it is a manual.

I finally got into the house, and it happened to be a week before D4C. This meant I had a very busy week, especially since I didn't take off work that week! I got extremely lucky to find a 3 Car garage in my price range, and I mean one with a house/interior that would be reasonable for the future.





Unfortunately there was a lot of work to do to in advance. First priority was to sell the GF's Jeep (since it was taking up a garage space after I cleaned it all up). But it was nice to have the storage space for waxing the cars-- a place where they will actually STAY CLEAN.



I installed garage lighting (as there was practically none before) in both bays and built work benches in each. The house was literally empty in the garage, I have been adding storage space such as shelving and wiring the secondary garage door opener to power. It is crazy to me how the previous owners had left it, but this just means that I have more flexibility for my own space. I wasn't sure I would, but I actually like the split 2 car garage, as in the below zero winter, it stays a decent 35 degrees, while the other stall gets below freezing. The means I can still have a work space for a car if I need to do some repairs in the cold season...



I moved the 633 to the house under it's own power, and surprisingly, even though it has a huge exhaust leak, and bad brake bomb, I was able to make it home in a traffic jam through Denver. Parking the car at the house was a good feeling... until I was looking at it every day stuck on the side of the street without tags.



So, I realized instead of getting a ticket, I should move in to the yard. Conveniently the side fence fell down in November from the PO's hack fix (they didn't set the post in concrete, they used nails to hold it together, and they used 2x4's nailed together as a post! ). But since it fell down, I had a great opportunity to make a hinged gate into the side yard of my house. Some may have noticed it in the earlier photos. This worked out pretty well, so before I put the posts in, I drove the car into the yard.



I got the hinged gate up and it has been quite convenient so far. The space means I have additional parking for a second car if the need arises. The main reason I have updated this now is that I have begun to make additional progress although it is going to be slow. I started by taking off the thrashed front spoiler and front bumper. This exposed the intercooler and will allow me to thoroughly degrease everything in the near future.



Also the perfect opportunity to mock up my spare euro spoiler and bumper.



Last weekend I met my friend to pull the donor motor for the car. I believe the B32 engine has an oil pump issue, the oil pressure light never goes out except when revving above 2000rpm. Oil pressure stays around 5psi until you get to that point. Maybe the pump bolts are loose, but either way, I figure a new motor will be the best way to go. I grabbed a G265 to go along with the new motor so hopefully no trans issues down the road.

The donor. A US 533i that had a B34 and G265 trans:


Getting the engine and trans out with load leveler:




The engine is a stock M30B34 and it has Ford Lime Green injectors (42lb F83e-a5a). I am thinking these may work for a low 5-8psi turbo build (maybe with, maybe without the callaway kit).

Anyway, the Callaway Microfueler is standalone. This means the 7th injector is more or less an add on kit to the Motronic ECU. The M30B34 allows me to go with an 059 ECU and maybe possibly buy the TCD turbo chip if necessary. If I understand its function correctly, I could disconnect the Callway microfueler/injector lead, and using a RRFPR and the chip, I could have a base tune for a entry level turbo setup. The car already has a starting point as far as hardware...

Parts on order/on hand:

633CSi chassis. E28 Based
M30B34 with 059 ECU
633 Flywheel (to be swapped to B34)
M5 Clutch Kit
G265 transmission
B35 starter
T04B Rotomaster turbo (from Callaway kit)
Callaway intercooler
S3.25 diff
Bilstein Sport Shocks/ struts
H&R Lowering springs
New steering parts - to be replaced with engine out of the car
Euro Bumpers, Euro Headlights, Euro turn signals.

Which leads me to now. I will be cleaning out the car in the next few days before heading out of town for a business trip. I am hoping to get the interior cleaned up and get the drivers window operable again. When I return from my trip, my friend Mike and I will be pulling the engine to do the swap.

Right now, it looks like the B32 block has been tapped for the oil drain. With the new engine I am thinking of tapping a spare pan and swapping it in just prior to the engine install. I will retrofit the oil filter/feed from the B32 engine to the B34. Then, the other hardware should swap over. Any thoughts on this? It looks like a standard NPT fitting to AN hose is the best way, so the hose can be removed quickly and easily.

[marc79euro645]

Cool project!, I'm glad you got a 3.4L
good luck
marc

[LSXBeemer]

That is a cool project. One day, and hopefully soon, I will own an E24. Beautiful car. I've never heard of a Calloway model. I'm familiar with the Calloway turbo Vette's, so I'm assuming it's the same guy.

Subscribed.

[tschultz]

I spent this weekend cleaning up the interior and working on fixes like the hood latch and trunk lock.

I took out both seats to deep clean the carpets and and get rid of all the trash. It's looking better but still a ways to go! At least it's usable inside now...







I still need a window motor, but for the time being I can open and close it manually.




I replaced the trunk lock with a spare I had. Before I couldn't unlock the car from the trunk. Now I have two trunk keys and the all of the central locking units work properly.



I got the fuses in order and replaced the bad fuses. Now the trunk light, interior light, and sidemarkers work. However, the headlights don't work properly. I see the wiring has been rewrapped and spliced into, so I will have to determine the issue.



Lastly, I went through the engine bay and tightened up the AFM connections as it wasn't idling due to a improper seal. Now the car starts up every time and idles properly. It is now driveable to my friends place for the engine swap.

I replaced the hood latch cable and now can close and latch the hood properly, along with cleaning out the dirt and crap in the bay. There is more work to be done such as degreasing, but it is getting closer to being ready to be pulled out in favor of the M30B34.

[tig]

This is a great rescue! Loving it.

[Jelmer538i]

I really like these pojects! It is so good to see that a car full of trash gets so clean on the inside.
Keep the updates coming

[downforce22]

keep the USA license plate frame!!

[tschultz]

keep the USA license plate frame!!

Unfortunately I threw that out after I drove it home

I had been out of town for work all last week, so I continued some progress this weekend getting the car ready for the engine to be taken out. This included a few things.

I was able to get my hands on a TCD turbo chip. the plan is to use the microfueler to get the car up and running after the swap since so much will be a direct swap onto the engine I pulled out. Here's the chip in the 059 ECU:





I continued this morning trying to track down the wiring issue I am having with headlights. They operate properly with the high beam switch on, however, the low beams do not come on with the normal switch. I have determining that the relays are working and the wiring at the lamps is correct... I am a little bit at a loss because the switch on the steering wheel doesn't look to have been messed with.

I am guessing it may be the white/gray wire that was cut on the headlight switch. I'll investigate more later.

In the mean time, I decided to rewrap the wiring harness, because for some reason half of the protective wrap had been removed. Here's how it was-- I wanted to add another layer of protection from wear along the front clip and sheetmetal parts.





Next, I was unhappy with the gauge pod location so I removed it from the knee panel. It was not usable to look at your knees when driving around. The first step was the dismount the pod location and remove the wiring.



I'll be rerunning wiring, labeling it, and cleaning it up so it is not so much a rats nest. But I did like that the gauges were all still lighted.



The Callaway AFR gauage didn't work, but I suspect it just wasn't completing the signal to the sensor. Either way, I will be using an AEM UEGO Wideband to monitor the fuel mixture. It will be more accurate and real time anyway. Maybe down the road I will log the data on a laptop.

Finally, I spent an hour or so de-greasing the engine bay and piping. This is all in anticipation of the swap. Immediately the engine looked 10x better than what it was before since a nice layer of dirt came off. I take a look back at my original purchase photos and I don't understand how somebody lets their car get like this. The piping is actually much closer to silver than the black it was before.





More photos to come later this week when the engine pull begins.

[9mil]

Keep it going! Love seeing this and the fact that someone out there is making progress on a turbo 6!

Keep the updates coming- they are a PIA but we love them!

9

[tschultz]

Thanks for all the enthusiasm guys!

In order to do the swap, my friend will need a bit of additional space in his driveway. So on Sunday, I rode down to his house and drove one of his cars back to my place to be parked on the side of the house.



Also, i realized I didn't post the after photos of the engine bay. It is still super greasy, but much cleaner than before. Shame to get it all cleaned up and not enjoy it, but the new engine will make it all worthwhile. The B32 is leaking oil from the front seal anytime it is driven long enough to completely heat up the oil.





Yesterday I installed the Euro turn signals and trimmed the reflectors so that I could finally remove the 'elephant ear' '83-'87 turn signal lenses.



I tried to identify the issue with the low beam headlights and I believe it is caused by the "Low Beam Check Relay" inside the fusebox board. If I understand this does not usually go out, but it is the only thing that explains why fuses and relays are good, wiring is good, and the low beams only work when the turn signal stalk is moved to the high beam position. Either way, this should be an issue that is found on 533i's, and it seems like in all my searching nobody has a proper fix. People jumper past the relay and complete the circuit from underneath. I will have to think about how I want to do this.

Additionally, I got the AEM UEGO Wideband in the mail, so I installed it. I didn't want to mess with a gaugepod yet, so it is in a temporary position until I can finalize all of the wiring.



And a couple photos of the interior as well. It is liveable now, although there is still more cleaning to do yet!





So today, I got off work early today and did a few things on the car, in preparation for removing the engine tomorrow and Friday. I got an oil drain fitting and had the oil pan tapped for it. The engine in the car has the block tapped, but I figured adding some additional height for the drain to feed by gravity would be a good idea. Plus I had the spare pan and was able to clean it up, it seemed like a no-brainer to do it this way and not risk the metal shavings. 1/2" NPT (m) x -10AN. New Parker hi temp hose will be used also. The -10AN means the passageway is 1/2" in diameter, all in efforts to eliminate as much backpressure to the turbo (oil feed/return) as possible.





I also pulled the trigger on some Style 42 wheels. I have seen some photos of these wheels and on an E24, they look killer! They are nice enough that even just putting them next to the car makes the crappy paint look that much better.



Tomorrow We will be tearing into it and I have all new steering components like idler arm, center link, and tie rod ends so that I can replace these while there is clearance with the turbo dismounted. So here's a few photos of the car currently. From 10 feet, the paint looks decent and I think will be good enough to become a track vehicle. The spoiler is off so that I don't have to mess with it and store it when we are actually doing the swap.













Euro headlights.



So driving the car right now is a little interesting because the 260/5 only has gears 1,2, and 5. That coupled with the exhaust leak means that it is a little noisy, and you have to rev it up quite a bit to get up to speed to use 5th gear. It feels like the turbo never really spools in 1st gear because of this leak. Also, this means I don't know how accurate the wideband reading is at the moment. But with that said, the vacuum/boost gauge will sit at 5psi when accelerating in 2nd gear. Even with the leaks, it feels like it is pulling as fast as the M5 in second gear(at altitude). The good news is that the microfueler is keeping the AFR's at about 12.5-13 when on the gas. When off the gas however, and maybe it is because of the exhaust leak, I am getting 17 readings on the AFR. Getting the exhaust leak fixed will be the first priority with the new engine, and dialing in the microfueler to keep a steady AFR will be next.

I want to add a turbo bypass valve, as the car currently doesn't have one. I want to add it so that the new engine won't be subject to any sort of surge. Now at 5psi or less in the intake manifold, I don't know if that's possible, but it is one of the first items I will address. Not sure if this means the turbo will need to be refreshed, but I know it can't be good. I'd like to position it as close to the throttle as possible, so in my head, I was thinking at the ICV. Maybe I can remove this and the car will still idle when cold? It will have the larger injectors so I'll try it at least.

So i certainly have a lot of work ahead of me, but I am hoping to make major progress with the engine swap in the next 2 days as I am taking off work to get it done.

[oldskool]

I'm really digging this. Thanks for the details.

[offroadkarter]

This is coming along really well, its going to look heaps better with those style 42's on it which look imacculate.



Also if you are going to add a recirculation valve, it might just be easiest to weld a bung onto the side of the intake pipe that leads to the manifold. I've seen people with M106's weld a BOV flange there. Another option is to get the intake pipe of a M102 that has the recirculation valve built in?



It looks like you could make that work on your car. Also just to note, the M106 ran 6psi and has no form of recirculation valve. I've had my car up to 14psi with no compressor surge. I'm not sure how but I don't question it. Adding some form of recirculation/vent is a good idea though but at 5psi I wouldn't worry about anything catastrophic.


What A/F does your car idle at? When I'm driving if I let off the car my LC1 will snap up to 21.8, but thats normal for being off the throttle and coasting. When I just lightly tap the gas it'll drop right back down to the 14's.

[T_C_D]

What A/F does your car idle at? When I'm driving if I let off the car my LC1 will snap up to 21.8, but thats normal for being off the throttle and coasting. When I just lightly tap the gas it'll drop right back down to the 14's.

All modern engine management turn the fuel off with the throttle closed and the engine above a specified rpm, like 1200/1300.

[downforce22]

So today, I got off work early today and did a few things on the car, in preparation for removing the engine tomorrow and Friday. I got an oil drain fitting and had the oil pan tapped for it. The engine in the car has the block tapped, but I figured adding some additional height for the drain to feed by gravity would be a good idea. Plus I had the spare pan and was able to clean it up, it seemed like a no-brainer to do it this way and not risk the metal shavings. 1/2" NPT (m) x -10AN. New Parker hi temp hose will be used also. The -10AN means the passageway is 1/2" in diameter, all in efforts to eliminate as much backpressure to the turbo (oil feed/return) as possible.

So driving the car right now is a little interesting because the 260/5 only has gears 1,2, and 5. That coupled with the exhaust leak means that it is a little noisy, and you have to rev it up quite a bit to get up to speed to use 5th gear. It feels like the turbo never really spools in 1st gear because of this leak. Also, this means I don't know how accurate the wideband reading is at the moment. But with that said, the vacuum/boost gauge will sit at 5psi when accelerating in 2nd gear. Even with the leaks, it feels like it is pulling as fast as the M5 in second gear(at altitude). The good news is that the microfueler is keeping the AFR's at about 12.5-13 when on the gas. When off the gas however, and maybe it is because of the exhaust leak, I am getting 17 readings on the AFR. Getting the exhaust leak fixed will be the first priority with the new engine, and dialing in the microfueler to keep a steady AFR will be next.

I want to add a turbo bypass valve, as the car currently doesn't have one. I want to add it so that the new engine won't be subject to any sort of surge. Now at 5psi or less in the intake manifold, I don't know if that's possible, but it is one of the first items I will address. Not sure if this means the turbo will need to be refreshed, but I know it can't be good. I'd like to position it as close to the throttle as possible, so in my head, I was thinking at the ICV. Maybe I can remove this and the car will still idle when cold? It will have the larger injectors so I'll try it at least.

I think you forgot to mention the B32 engine had the oil drain in the block Since you are changing the block, the pan needed to be tapped. What high temp hose are you using for the oil lines? I found this shop local in colorado springs with the AN fittings, hoses, oil cooler, and PTFE lines that I am planning to use for oil cooling. They also have couplers i have bought from them. https://www.frozenboost.com/ They have free pickup on parts here in the springs. I can pick them up if you need anything.

Car looks real nice though.

As Todd said, the oxygen sensor shouldn't measure anything when the throttle is closed. My MS2 goes into fuel cut mode. It sounds like a boost leak is really limiting you though. I'm not sure the recirc valve will work in the icv slot. With the throttle closed you won't have any air to the engine to idle. I would suggest plumbing the recirc valve on the inlet piping just downstream of the turbo so you can route it upstream of the compressor.

[tschultz]

This is coming along really well, its going to look heaps better with those style 42's on it which look imacculate.



Also if you are going to add a recirculation valve, it might just be easiest to weld a bung onto the side of the intake pipe that leads to the manifold. I've seen people with M106's weld a BOV flange there. Another option is to get the intake pipe of a M102 that has the recirculation valve built in?



It looks like you could make that work on your car. Also just to note, the M106 ran 6psi and has no form of recirculation valve. I've had my car up to 14psi with no compressor surge. I'm not sure how but I don't question it. Adding some form of recirculation/vent is a good idea though but at 5psi I wouldn't worry about anything catastrophic.


What A/F does your car idle at? When I'm driving if I let off the car my LC1 will snap up to 21.8, but thats normal for being off the throttle and coasting. When I just lightly tap the gas it'll drop right back down to the 14's.

Thanks offroadkarter! In anticipation of the swap, I have researched heavily into your question about the bypass valve. I plan to add one and I'd like to keep it as close to the throttle plate as possible as this will be the point of most restriction when flow disrupted. Also, I am thinking this will allow maximum boost response when the throttle reopens (as opposed to having pressure bled off say at the exit of the compressor and creating a buildup of pressure all the way through the IC piping.). I'd prefer not to blow off to atmosphere because of the accounted for air leaving the system and creating a rich condition.

I was thinking that the B34 Idle Valve will be in a different location from the B32 and I can have the same fitting modified to accept another fitting for the turbo bypass, and then send it back to an elbow or other fitting right after the AFM but before the turbo(it won't be seeing boost pressure). God to know this isn't a must have item for the short term/easy driving.

The problem with my AFR is that I had a large exhaust leak (and taking it apart today, it turned out to be before the sensor). Idle was sowing 17-18, and I will be much ore curious to see what it is after I get leaks from the system eliminated.

I think you forgot to mention the B32 engine had the oil drain in the block Since you are changing the block, the pan needed to be tapped. What high temp hose are you using for the oil lines? I found this shop local in colorado springs with the AN fittings, hoses, oil cooler, and PTFE lines that I am planning to use for oil cooling. They also have couplers i have bought from them. https://www.frozenboost.com/ They have free pickup on parts here in the springs. I can pick them up if you need anything.

Car looks real nice though.

As Todd said, the oxygen sensor shouldn't measure anything when the throttle is closed. My MS2 goes into fuel cut mode. It sounds like a boost leak is really limiting you though. I'm not sure the recirc valve will work in the icv slot. With the throttle closed you won't have any air to the engine to idle. I would suggest plumbing the recirc valve on the inlet piping just downstream of the turbo so you can route it upstream of the compressor.

Yep, exactly. I got Parker hi-temp hose rated to 302 F. I also got the AN fittings from them, although the -10 was quite expensive, I was able to get them that day so I could work on the swap today.

Regarding the reirc valve, I still believe that it might make more sense to put it close to the throttle plate and just modify the fitting (that goes into the Callaway manifold).


So I worked all day today to get the new engine ready to go and although I don't have photos today. We got the oil pan in place, new starter, old transmission off, old clutch off. New flywheel will go on tomorrow, along with the G265 that we assembled and the oil filter housing/turbo feed will be swapped.

The Old ECU, wiring and everything in the engine is ready for a pull tomorrow. There were many things messed up about the engine and car, but I am very glad to be changing so much of it. The coolant was nasty brown, the radiator will need to be flushed because of this. The exhaust was held in place by wire and chain, there was a spark plug and socket in the fender wheel, along with a bunch more trash and crap in the nooks and crannies, and to top it all off, the exhaust was pieced together so that that block of wood (in post 1) was holding the wastegate together to the exhaust and downpipe. We were sitting there scratching our heads on how to remove the system from the car when we decided to start taking off the exhaust and driveshaft from underneath. When we got the rats next of wires and such removed and the mounts, I realized the exhaust felt a bit free.This was after we had removed the wooden block for jack support, and all the sudden the exhaust bits fell apart!

Curious to hear about your other exhaust suggestions. I'll provide a few photos when I load them up, but for now you all will have to wait.


Hoping to put the engine in tomorrow and have it running! Sorry for the quick update, I will fill more in later!

[tschultz]

SO, continuing the updates.

The donor engine had to have a few changes since it was already out of the car.
B35 smaller starter. Re-manufactured Bosch unit.



Starter in place, light weight flywheel in place (my friend had a spare and he was going to take mine when it came out). Oil pan off, for installation of tapped one. Cleaning of the mating surfaces.



Oil pump bolts all nice and tight.





New oil pan awaiting installation



Oil pan installed.



While it is accessible, we replaced this fuel line, I believe this is the cold start injector. PITA out of the car, how do you do it in the car??



Moved the car inside to start the teardown.



I think the front main seal was the culprit of this greasy mess. The other interesting part was that the coolant was a nasty brown color, and the radiator was coated with the same sludge as well.



Radiator out, harness coming off the fusebox (C101 connector I believe).





Removing the exhaust was the next step to get the driveshaft off and transmission crossmember removed. The down pipe could not be unbolted in the car, so we were looking to see how the exhaust was fixed. Unfortunately, it was looking like the we were going to have to cut the down pipe to allow clearance for the motor pull since it couldn't be unbolted.

Well, remember that block of wood jammed in between the firewall from this picture?



We decided to remove it to see what sort of clearance we had to work with.

That's when the rear section of the exhaust decided that it was now free to separate:



That's when the wastegate downpipe flange became available.



This was a sigh of relief for both of us- we were laughing at the hillbilly engineering. Of course this block of wood wasn't a Callaway special part.



Full exhaust down after cutting and removing the chian and bailing wire that was holding it all in place



ECU and such removed. Besides the transmission and removing the AC unit, it was a good stopping point for the night.







The next day we continued and started on pulling the engine.



It was quite greasy so I didn't get a ton of photos, but we managed . After a good bit of finesse we were able to get it up and out! Unfortunately I will have to replace the heater core as some point as we didn't take off one of the hose clamps.







Turbo off:





Rolled the car out to have some more space to work:



Here's the turbo, flange and downpipe orientation. I am going to have this remade. Somebody tried a 'fix' at some point and failed miserably. The weld bits got everywhere and did not seal at all. Maybe at one point it was held in place, but it had obviously cracked by this point in time.





Wastegate gasket also blown. This is the correct/original rotomaster wastegate.



I plan to have the unit retapped so the mounting screws go in all the way nicely. Notice the failed turbo gasket. I believe this is a T3 turbo gasket that I should be able to get at the local turbo store? I'll find out this week.



This gasket has the rotomaster part number on it too.



The turbo seems to not have any side to side shaft play, and spins smoothly. I may have been lucky. As the other kit sold here, it has the Rotomaster T04B53 turbo.



Here's the Callaway manifold. I don't believe you can mount the turbo with the engine in place, and I also don't think you can remove the manifold while it is in the car (It's a PITA out of the car).



With what I have found online, this turbo is comparable to the T04B H trim (possibly S), but seems to be sized quite well for my application at altitude. Pr=1.413 at 5psi and Pr=1.826 at 10psi. Lb/min~ 30.56 and 39.1, respectively.



Here we are putting on the M5 Clutch kit.



I didn't get photos of the oil canister switch. The tapped unit went on the new motor and we switched the rear coolant line connector for the heater core.

Here's some of the hillbilly mechanic work we encountered. Needless to say, I replaced the sway bar end links asap.





Brake bomb replacement since we now have access to it:




Here's how the engine sits ready to go besides the manifold, turbo, down pipe and an ICV. Going with the Bosch E30 T type for an elegant solution. Oil drain hose length to be sized properly once the manifold and turbo is reinstalled.

[offroadkarter]

Wow, whoever worked on that car before you got it should not be touching cars at all, let alone welding downpipes.


Also if its just a T3 flange turbo I don't see any reason why you'll have trouble sourcing a gasket.

[T_C_D]

It's a T4 flange. You shouldn't need any gaskets for the turbo or wastegate if the surfaces are still smooth and flat.

[Shadow]

Only noobs use them.
Use rtv on turbo flange. Maybe you shouldn't even really need that, but it always seals perfect.
Those china bullshit cheep gaskets are complete garbage. don't use these.

[tschultz]

Thanks for the feedback guys! Downpipe being made this week, and hopefully dropping the motor in on Saturday.

Images also resized for better loading purposes.

[tschultz]

Making more progress!

Here's the nasty coolant that came out of the B32. I'm super surprised it ran and that it didn't overheat when I drove it!



Here's the bad clutch bearing I got with my clutch kit. Glad Mike had a spare on hand when we did that.



The remade downpipe from Bud's Muffler here in Denver. It's a tight slide fit but will use these muffler clamps to get everything together (but maintain disassembly/reassembly). This was prior to trimming either end for fitment.



The new gasket from Central Motive Power here in Denver. This flange seemed to be slightly warped so I'm glad to have used the gasket.

The turbo compared to the stock KKK turbo on the 745i. This rotomaster is:
Roto-Master Inc.
Mod T04B53
P/N 104237
I didn't take it apart and measure, but from another poster, the compressor specs: inducer: 1.90", exducer: 2.75", so 48 trim unit.



Added some silicone to the gasket due to the slight warp. Here's the new (metric) SS hardware:



Didn't take a ton of photos getting the turbo cleaned up/degreased, but it is not completely coated now. This was nice during assembly.
The manifold and turbo was very difficult to mount into place, so I am sure the engine had to be out of the car/lifter in order to install the kit. If not, maybe that's why the manifold flange only had 3 bolts on the turbo (and the blown gasket). Regardless after much trial and error, we got 11 of the exhaust manifold nuts into place (12 we couldn't get the wrench on with the turbo in place). It's the upper bolt on cylinder 5, conveniently behind the turbo. Either way having the clamping force of the log manifold on bottom and cylinder 4 and 6, we felt this was the best way to create the seal. That way, the turbo flanges would be super tight and all the other manifold nuts would be as tight as possible.

While we had the space, I replaced the main fuel and return lines. The old ones seemed pliable, but cheap insurance. It turned out the originals were date stamped 11/82, so they were original! They didn't look cracked anywhere though, so I feel better knowing the BMW fuel line is worth the money!



The patient ready for heart transplant surgery!




I waited to hook up the Oil drain line, but here we are putting the engine and transmission in place. You can see we also used the BMW exhaust manifold gaskets. The old Callaway ones lined up to the log manifold, but one had slightly failed. It didn't however, line up properly to the head exhaust ports. The same but opposite was true of the BMW gaskets. We felt having the single piece BMW units would be best, and thee have the integrated heat shields which is a bonus. You can't see it here, but we had to separate #6 since the heat shield was right in the way of the wastegate.



Having the load-leveler was super critical to putting in the engine this way. Getting the engine and transmission in place this way is almost a work of art--- the E28 has a few more critical inches in this section to get the harmonic balancer clear of the nose panel/AC condenser.





Getting the engine on the motor mount was tricky because we can't move the supporting beam in the garage the same way a hoist can roll around forward, back, left, and right. So getting the engine on the drivers side mount took some persuasion, I think it was because of our limited space on the exhaust side of the engine. Finally, though, we got the engine in it's resting place.



Plenty of things we did last night after the motor was in place way hook up the oil drain, mount up the wastegate/downpipe (it was a tight fit!). Swap AC unit in the nose (back to the old style, this new one had the wrong connector), mount power steering pump, hook up C101 connector, install transmission crossmember, assemble shift lever/console and install, install shift linkage, install slave cylinder, install throttle cables, hook up fuel lines, route ECU wiring harness, resplice 02 Sensor cabling, install 02/wideband sensor, clean up glovebox wiring nest, etc, etc
The driveshaft is in and the clutch feels good. Pretty excited to think about how it's going to run.


There's a short list of things to do still, but it is getting shorter:

-hook up coolant lines
-reinstall AC bracket/compressor and belt. Recharge the system
-mount ICV and plumbing. Also add BOV port? (now or later, TBD)
-reinstall sway bar
-realign drivers side wheel/tie rod
-install lower exhaust section
-Remount intake/Intercooler piping
-Mount AFM/filter
-install new fan clutch/fan
-Clean up/install grommets for glovebox and firewall

Hoping to get this list finished up Tuesday night and have the car drivable!

EDIT:
I found a Callaway E23 image. I like how clean this looks with the Callaway kit, but it looks like some parts have been modified from what I have. I don't see a BOV, but I do see the Evap Control valve installed still...

[Jelmer538i]

Don't use stainless steel hardware on exhausts, you can't unbolt them when they where hot once.